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I would not recommend this for many reasons. First, there are physical considerations. Are the bolt holes the same? Are the shocks the same length both when fully compressed and when fully extended. But most important is the characteristics of the shocks. Shocks are designed to be compatible with the handling characteristics of the car. How stiff or soft are they in both compression and rebound. Mismatched shocks can affect a car's handling to the point of making it dangerous to drive. Don't do it.
Here's a quick way to set your 300ZX up for more responsive handling. You can leave it this way permanently, or just do it for autocross days or a nice day that has you itching for some fun.
The car has two-position shock settings - sport and touring. To give the car a more lively, tossable handling feel, set the shocks in the Touring position, then open the hood, unplug the actuators on top of the front shocks, and close the hood. Get back in, flick the switch to Sport, and hit the road. This way, your front shocks are set soft (Touring) but the rears are stiffened up in Sport, which will make your car a little more tail-happy and willing to rotate in the turns. Enjoy:)
There is no factory setting. Each motorcycle needs to be set up by the rider for there particular weight. How you set it up depends on whether both the front and rear suspension are adjustable or not. Basically when you sit on the motorcycle with your gear on you want the front and the back of the motorcycle to drop at the same time. This mostly comes into play on hard or extreme cornering. If the front is too soft, the front wheel might wash out first affectively placing you in the face plant position. Likewise if the back slides out first, and it does not go too far,you at least have a chance to recover. Worst case scenario you will high side and again achieve the face plant position.
If you have adjustable pressure on the front forks set the front air pressure first to soft or stiff (depending on which you prefer) , then tighten or loosen the spring on the rear shock or, raise or lower the rear shock air pressure to achieve the front and back both dropping at the same time when you bounce on the seat.If there is no front fork adjustment then adjust the back to match the front. If you carry a passenger the rear will need to be stiffened . At least be aware of the difference in handling, if you decide not to readjust for a short drive, to take it easy with passenger on the back.
If you are adjusting clicker shocks, Turn the screws and count the clicks. Best starting point is the middle position (5 out of ten). Make minor adjustments to the dampening from there.
Use the hook tool in the tool kit . Place it in the hole on the shock and spin the body. Usually there are 5 different tension settings. After you decide on hard or soft , set your fork pressure so when you bounce on the seat the front and back suspension drop together.
wrench or hand turn rear mono shock. Extend the shock for more resistance. Are the front forks air or gas? If they are not pushing down then the rebound is problem bottomed out , air valve on top of forks
what year is the bike? make sure the comp screws are adjusted right in clockwise, then wind it 11 cicks anti clockwise. if it is still too soft add a bit more oil. about 1 fluid oz to each fork leg up to 2 fluid ozs. as long as you have the right amount of oil in the forks in the first place. if this is still too soft you will need to put heavier sprins in. hope this helps. cheers kev.
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