Got a reconditioned starter motor installed on my 1150rt back in February, issues with starting happened in May. Mechanic looked at problem and said it was the Solenoid so he replaced it. Going fine for about a week or two and now when she is starting from warm it takes about 3 to 5 attempts to start her. What do you think? Thanks Jason

Hi. If your 1998 Ford F-150 starts when the electrical system is cold but fails to start after driving, and you have already replaced the battery, alternator, and solenoid, there are a few additional potential causes to consider: 1. Ignition Switch: The ignition switch may be failing or experiencing heat-related issues. Over time, the switch can develop internal faults that prevent the vehicle from starting when it's hot. Consider having the ignition switch inspected and potentially replaced if necessary. 2. Starter Motor: A faulty starter motor can exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. When the starter motor gets hot, it may fail to engage and crank the engine. Consider having the starter motor tested to determine if it's functioning correctly. 3. Heat Soak: Heat soak occurs when the heat generated during engine operation affects the electrical components, particularly the starter motor. This can cause the starter motor to become temporarily inoperative until it cools down. Insulating the starter motor or installing a heat shield may help alleviate this issue.

4. Wiring and Connections: Inspect the wiring and connections associated with the starting system. Look for loose, damaged, or corroded wires, connectors, and terminals. Heat can exacerbate electrical issues, so pay particular attention to any wiring or connections that may be affected by engine heat. Repair or replace any damaged wiring or connectors as necessary. 5. Fuel Delivery Issues: While this may not directly relate to the electrical system, fuel delivery problems can cause starting issues after the engine is hot. Check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors for any signs of malfunction. Insufficient fuel pressure or clogged components can hinder the engine's ability to start when hot. It is advisable to have a qualified mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic check to identify the exact cause of the starting issue. They can use specialized tools and equipment to pinpoint the problem and provide appropriate repairs or replacements.

If the starter motor will not turn the engine over then you will need to track issues with the electrical connections to the starter solenoid, and connections between the solenoid and the starter motor. If there is no issue with the power supply to the starter motor then you may have a faulty starter solenoid or faulty starter motor.

One way or the other you are going to have to have a mechanic go over the car and investigate and locate the issue. There are no easy fixes or simple answers to what your particular no crank/ no start problem is.

starter need to be recondition or ring gear on fly wheel might also be damaged just repair starter motor first and look at ring gear when starter motor is out

To replace a starter motor:

1. If you can get access to it, tap the starter motor firmly around the upper end with a hammer (not too hard) as you can sometimes get them to work a while longer by doing this.
This can be useful to know if you need to drive the car somewhere one more time, to a garage or your home for example.
It will fail again soon however, even if tapping gets the starter going a few times.
When starter motors fail, it is usually because the contacts or solenoid that 'flings' the drive gear in the starter across to engage with the motor drive gear has failed.
You can tell if this is the case if you just get a spinning noise or a dead click when you turn the key to start the motor.

Other reasons they seem to fail are below..check all of these as they all happen regularly. Many people unnecessarily spend a lot of money on a new/ reco starter because they did not check all of the following;

a)If it has one, the $5 condenser on the outside of the starter needs replacing, or

b)The power lead(s) bolted onto the starter has come loose or has corrosive build up, causing a poor connection.

c) The live or negative cable(s) attaching to the car battery are loose or have corrosive acid build up - wire brush them until they shine again.

d) The car battery can seem OK, but it actually has failed and hasn't got the capacity to kick the starter motor gear into 'driver' position. Get a friend or auto service to jump start the motor with battery cables and see if the starter kicks in OK. Despite the expense its always worth replacing a car battery if a test shows it can't hold amperage any longer - you will be amazed at the ease of starting, better lights and performance afterward with a new battery.
Some people actually get rid of cars when all they need is a new battery. Never undervalue how worthwhile this investment is if your battery is three or four years old and it takes a while to start.

e) Worn out contacts in the car ignition/key system can lead to intermittent/ irregular starter motor behaviour.

To replace the starter, if required:

Firstly - shop around for a 'reconditioned' Hyundai starter motor from a reputable auto electrician - it will be far cheaper than a new one.
Ask them which reconditioned parts are new and which are old before buying, they should have used a fully approved repair kit from BMW or equivalent to recondition the starter. Often, they will want a deposit and want your old starter brought in later as an refund exchange once you swap-over. This should also bring the price down, as they then get to fully re-condition yours and sell it to the next customer. Ensure that they supply a new housing oil /dust seal as well, to go between the base of the starter and the mount.

Mechanics.
As its a Hyundai, you will need both a metric spanner and socket set, not imperial.

1.Try to get a shop manual but basically, rule number one is to disconnect both terminals from the car battery. Take a photo to ensure they are replaced with the correct polarity later unless they already have different sized cable to battery lug connectors.
2.Starter motor voltage really packs a punch, so make sure both cables are safely disconnected and isolated for good measure.
3.Remove any accessories /exhaust/ covers/ items in the way (above the starter motor) and disconnect all powerleads to it, take a photo of where they were connected or label them before you remove them.
4. Undo the two nuts holding the starter motor onto its mount housing, be sure to note the position of all washers etc.
5. Rock the starter motor gently from side to side until you disengage the gear and can pull it out. Anticipate it's weight as you release it, being full of copper windings its quite a heavy item.
6, Using a paintbrush and kerosene, clean the mount area thoroughly and replace the housing seal.
7. Push the reco starter motor onto the threaded studs, ensuring that it is the correct way around and up. Then install the washers onto the threaded studs and screw the mount nuts back into place and tighten up.
8. Reconnect wires onto the starter. Replace any other motor parts removed to access the starter.
9. Reconnect the car battery and test the reconditioned starter motor.

First check the fuse going to the solenoid, then the solenoid itself. if non of these look at the wiring between & of course check the starter motor. If it is non of these, chances are it could be the immobiliser

We had the same issue on an 2001 Aurora. I left it for a year before it finally annoyed me enough to fix it. In our case it was the starter. The only difference was we didn't get a click of the solenoid when it happened.
I would guess the starter OR the alignment of the starter. If the starter is not aligned properly, sometimes when the solenoid engages it does not throw the gear out into the flywheel properly.
The "starts with a jump" doesn't make any sense to me. If this is really the case I would look at the battery and connections for an issue. If you do not have enough power to engage the starter properly this could be the issue.

This looks like a regulator or alternator issue. If you have access to a volt meter start the bike and check the voltage going to the battery. Needs to be 13.5 or 14 volts. If not time to take the Beemer to the shop.

could be a loose wire on the starter , check your connections

Hi, please get em model # so I can look this up and give you direction. If you have the back off, you can try and locate a duse (if this is a whirlpool brand) and test it. It has to have continuity to be good. Let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

try over riding the starter relay on the fender ,it has one there right?. dont go to a mechanic yet. the engine aint seized. if it doesnt have this relay then i would get the alternator tested. if you want to test it yourself it can be costly for the right equip. autozone usually tests for free. i dont know were you live so if theres not an autozone. let me know if you cant get it tested.