How to install power rod on a 2001 kx85,we did a piston and ring replacement and the power rod came right off, but how to reinstall is the problem

Remove the cylinder head. Then remove oil pan. Unbolts rods one at a time and pull piston out the top. Hone cylinder install new ting on piston and reinstall. (Make sure rod cap goes back on same rod and same direction don't for get to torque the bolts on the rod cap)

FIRST ORDER PROPER RINGS UTILIZING ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER LOCATED ON SIDE LOOKS LIKE GCAT-1919182 THEN GET THEM STANDARD REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD AND FRONT COVER REMOVE CONNECTING ROD BOLTS PUSH PISTON THROUGH INSTALL RINGS IN SAME ORDER WITH LETTER LOCATED AT END OF RINGS UP WITH GAPS WITH GAPS AT 90 DEGREES APART REINSTALL USING RING COMPRESSOR HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT RECOMMENDED.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Air-compressor-Parts/Model-919165020/0247/0703000 This is the exploded view that I used.

67 head 65 gasket 64 reed valve plate 63 ring,this one goes under the reed valve plate 62 screw that goes thru the 61 piston 60is a ring that sets on the top of the connecting rod screw the piston with the ring into the top of the connecting rod then take the connecting rod end cap off and cover the studs with some rubber tubing.This will protect the crankshaft when you push connecting rod and piston assembly in to the sleeve that is seated in the block.The ring should be flexible enough to push into the sleeve,if not a bit of oil should help.Guide the connecting rod on to the the crank shaft.I hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.com

Owner's Manual - CRAFTSMAN Air compressor 919165020, 919165050, 919165090, 919165230, 919167330, 919165221, 919165070, 919165310, 919164200, 919165060, 919165300, 919152922, 919165250, 919186430, 919155613, 919164150, 919165030, 919165130, 919165500, MG2-OILFREE, 919165110, 919167200, 919165000 - ManageMyLife.com

remove engine from car and install on an engine stand, remove head and oil pan, disconnect lowe rod bearing cap and remove piston through the top, measure crank with a micrometer to get proper bearing size, install rod onto piston and install using ring compressor then install on crank shaft, lube well, reassemble engine and install in car

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-764174.html

hi buddy the standard piston and rings will be the ones you need if its still below 85psi your barrel must be out of shape or you are leaking air in the gasket or in the coolant also when you put a new piston kie in get new gaskets my kx85 new ring and piston went to 185psi

Put the piston in with the mark on the top of the piston facing the exhaust port of the cylinder. put one circlip in the piston in the bore seated correctly in the groove. place piston over rod facing correct direction and insert wristpin into piston and through the rod needle bearing in the top of the rod. insert other circlip and seat correctly in groove. install compression rings with letter or any markings facing up. markings usually located at end gap on either side. install oil ring with straight ring on top squiggly ring in center and straight ring on bottom all in the same groove which will be the lowest groove on the piston.stagger all the ring end gaps. do not let all the gaps line up. install base gasket on engine case. clean everything and make sure everything stays clean. slide cylinder over piston and compress rings with fingers and finesse cylinder over piston. do not force. put nuts on studs and tighten to spec in service manual. install head gasket correctly and put head on and put nuts on studs. tighten to spec. reassemble rest of motorcycle and get hurt! have fun