Spongy Front brakes, braided hoses fitted direct to each caliper from master cylinder, also replaced brake master cylinder seals, bleed them to death, to remove air, pressure remains constant at brake leaver, but leaver almost touches the handle bar, hung calipers straight down with leaver tied back to handle bar over night no change, brakes do not pump up so do not suspect air in system any ideas,

anual Bleeding
The primary and secondary (front and rear) hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest line first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding operation, DO NOT allow the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with High Performance DOT-3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time.
NOTE: Non-ABS vehicles have the brake master cylinder (2140) mounted at an angle to the horizontal, bleeding may be better performed if the vehicle is positioned so that the brake master cylinder is horizontal.

1. To bleed the brake system, position a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.

1. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal (2455) down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the brake pedal to full-release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.

1. When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.

1. Repeat this procedure at the brake wheel cylinder on the opposite side. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled, and install the master cylinder cap and gasket. Ensure the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cap. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be at the MAX line to 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below.

1. If the primary (front brake) system is to be bled, repeat Steps 2 through 5 at the right front brake caliper and ending at the left front brake caliper. Bleed the brake master cylinder at the bleed screw after all calipers are bled.

1. After disc brake service, ensure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.

1. Check pedal feel. If brake pedal feels "spongy" repeat bleed procedure, or use the Vacuum method as outlined in Section 06-09, but bleed both rear calipers first.

You can also pressure bleed it. If the abs module needs to be bleed, that requires a special tool. If you have already tried the procedure posted and it didn't work, I'm not sure what next?

did you bleed the rear wheels or just the front
air still in the system possibly in the master cylinder

Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.

It means there is air in the brake line. If the fluid gets too low in the brake cylinder air gets pumped into the system when the brake is applied. A loose fitting or bad seal is usually why the fluid gets low. Fix the leak then add fluid and bleed the system of air. First bleed the master cylinder at the lever. There should be a bleeder valve on the cylinder. Put a clear rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve. Run the hose into a container so the brake fluid doesn't get on paint or plastic parts. The fluid can mess up the finish. Now squeeze the brake lever several times in rapid succession then hold the lever in without releasing it. Open the bleeder valve slowly and fluid and air bubbles will come out of the valve. Close the valve BEFORE releasing the lever. Do the same thing multiple times until only fluid comes out of the valve. Do not let the cylinder run out of fluid while bleeding. If it does, you have to start all over again.
Now do the same procedure on the wheel caliper.
Understand that the master cylinder and / or the wheel caliper may need new seals. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

BY TRUCK HAVING ABS BRAKE.YOU NEED A SCANNER TO BLEED BRAKES THE SCANNER HAS TO RESET OPERATION OF THE BRAKE HYDRALIC SYTEM BEFORE YOU CAN BLEED SYSTEM.

no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad

I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

Does all the usual tricks include wrapping a thick bungee cord around the brake lever and leaving it overnight? That should force any residual air bubbles to the top of the system where the master cylinder should replace them with fluid.

If that does not work try installing some new bleed screws, even speed bleeders.