Sprint 900 '96 Won't start.did three weeks ago,tried another battery-nothing.starter relay clicks when power applied directly,side stand switch seems to be ok

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

1. Make sure your battery is fully charged.
2. Check connections from battery to starter relay.
3. Make sure you have voltage going to the start side (small wire) of the relay with the key in the "start" position.
4. If you don't have voltage going to the start side of the relay (small wire) with key in the start positon, then your starter switch is faulty (under dash usually mounted on top of steering column).
5. If you have voltage to the start side of the relay (small wire) with key in start position, and it don't click when trying to start your car, then the starter relay is bad.
6. If your starter relay clicks, but engine don't turn over, then the starter is faulty.

If you think its the starter switch here is a picture of one uninstalled:
it should be on the upper side of steering column, and you must lower it by removing the mounting bolts that are directly under the column and lowering it down.

Not turning off sounds like an ignition switch problem. Not starting - then I think you should check the Low Tension side of the solenoid again to make sure there is current from the switch. If the solenoid's OK, the battery's fully charged with all the connections clean and tight, then it has to be the starter motor or engine. Check you can turn the engine by hand, if so then I would guess, it's probably the starter motor.
Good Luck

Try tracing it back from the starter relay with an automotive test light or voltmeter. Put the ground terminal of the test light onto a good ground, either on the engine or battery negative terminal. Then put the other end onto the small wire ( signal wire )terminal of the relay, turn ignition on and activate clutch or side stand switches as required then press starter button. Try it with the wire connected and disconnected and it should light up the test light. If the test light does light up it means you have current to the relay and the problem is further on with either the relay itself or the starter. If the test light did not light up then you will have to trace it further back through the safety switches ( clutch or side stand ) and fuses and start button until you get to a live feed. It would be helpful to have a circuit diagram for your bike so that you can see where to go next on the diagnostic circuit. You should be able to get one online if you don't have the manual. Think about it logically and you will soon find the cause. Best of luck.

when key is turned there is a single click and then nothing happens. Where do you hear this click coming from ? Before you replace parts you should test the electrical circuits , if you don't know how i suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starting of the vehicle , reading how it's suppose to work in factory service repair manual .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM) to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) and transmission control module (TCM) to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.

Are the battery cables good ? Voltage drop testing

Starter Voltage Drop

Test the control side of the circuit at the relay . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine .Then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Pretty complex looking isn't it . Using a factory scan tool at the dealer makes diagnosing a lot simpler . Can view data to the PCM , start signal from the ignition switch , Starter relay control , see input from transmission park neutral safety switch .

Check the clutch, neutral and side stand safety interlocks.
Double check that the bike is in neutral, and the clutch is pulled in when trying to start the bike.
If the bike is in gear with the side stand down, the bike cuts off all ignition.
If the clutch isn't pulled in, the starter won't engage.
Check all these safety interlock switches, and make sure you are in neutral with the clutch in when trying to start the bike.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The click of the relay is significant if it came from the starter relay. It would indicate that the contacts of the starter relay are not allowing power from the battery to flow to the starter motor. To check, temporarily jumper the 2 terminals of the starter relay; the starter motor should spin. To locate the starter relay, follow the big cable from the battery's + terminal. It would end up tied to 1 of the 2 terminals.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

mine did the samething as sooon as i got it on the trailor i tried to start it and the starter was froze up (worked fine in the water) so i replaced the starter and tried it and nothing happend. i went into the black box and figured out my starter relay burned up trying to get power to the starter. works fine now after changing relay and starter

check the starter, starter motor and the starter are one unit. just under nearth the battery. make sure the red battery wire is tight. and the black ground is tight to the chassis.
if you don't hear any clicking sound, the starter is bad, need replacement.
if you hear clicking sound then look for the starter module. mounted on the side of the distributor.
these are two most problem area.
if it still don't start, go to zcar.com or 300xcar.com
they should able to give you most place to look.
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good luck

I driving a 82-280zx