Question about 1989 kawasaki ZX 10

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1987 kawasaki ninja zx10 wont stay running when warmed up it

1987 kawasaki wont stay running when warmed up it sputters and backfires i tried different coils,pick up coils,cdi,gas tank,new plugs still the same

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How do i remove seats on a 1987 zx10 when the lock cable has snapped, need to charge the battery. Ta

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You didnt mention anything to do with the carbs so try some "Sea foam".... purchase at Autozone ($10) pour 1/3 can to two gallons fuel and drive it around for a good 10 to 15 miles and get on it once in awhile, ride safe..if the carbs are dirty or clogged... they wont be after your ride..there might be a little hesitation your first couple of miles till it starts to work..it took my bike 10 miles before it cleared out..bump start your bike if you have to to get it going and keep it going till it clears up.

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

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2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX10 R spits and sputters


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Dirty air filter
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
11. Old dead or bad fuel.
12. Faulty fuel pressure regulator
13. Pinholes in the in-tank plastic convoluted tubing from the pressure regulator to the quick disconnect check valve.
14. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
15. Throttle body controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
17. Clogged or faulty fuel injectors.
18. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
19. Faulty TPS, MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Weak or broken valve springs.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. The control module may be in limp mode.
24. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Faulty turn signal module.
3. Corroded, broken or loose connector pins/sockets in the wire harness between the speedometer and the ECM or TSSM and the sensor.
4. The speedometer unit has failed.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
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6. Air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
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Hi, ChrisG2011 it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
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6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.
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Hi, Blksteelgsr and the usual suspects are:
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