1975 Honda cb360t won't start.

check your coil

Check for compression. If it has fuel and spark and compression it should fire. If the compression is low it will not run.

First check fuel pressure if its not within specs replace pump.If fuel pressure is good then check for spark at the spark plug this should tell you if your problem is in the ignition system or fuel system.

I own three GL1000 cycles. After fussing with the points all three now have Dyna electronic ignitions. The difference is worth the price around $200. But to your problem. When replacing points Honda sells a plate assembly with everything on it (saves time plus you get all new screws and wires to the condenser). The condensers have always been a problem with all Honda point systems. Did you install a new condenser ? Also when installing puts it is easy to ground them out. You may have to go through the whole process again to get your spark back. I believe the problem you are having is with your starter solenoid . You need a new solenoid. But for now, take off your left side cover and jump the solenoid with a piece of wire , a screw driver , jumper cable clamp, etc. You may also want to solder in a push fuse to replace the old tube fuse which at this age can be a source of aggravation when you have to wiggle the wires to get the bike to power up.

If there is no spark your points are probably dirty or just grounded out. Try a new points and condenser set. Install the points carefully so the new set does not ground. I assume you already tried new spark plugs and spark plug caps.

i dont think its rev box.(rev box just keeps engine from reving over a certain rpm) could be bad gas or water in gas, also have you checked those valve clearances lately?? 0.003--0.004 on filler gage

check valve clearances

can you feel exhaust coming out both pipes? blockage, or valves. Once, I used a piece of gasket material to make a gasket, just cut out the shape and put the holes in it for the bolts, assembled, the exhaust didn't sound right, realized I forgot to cut the big hole in the middle. stupid. Valves would indicate because you probably wouldn't have a nice running engine.
is one louder than the other? you might have a leak at the head so you aren't gettin the same heat transfer.

Hi, your plug number for an NGK plug is D8ESL As far as the plug socket size it is a 13/16 deep well socket. The gap should be set at .07-.08mm.

I worked on a bunch of these bikes back when they were new and I was working at Mathews Honda in D.M. Iowa. Bear in mind that was 30 years ago. IF I recall correctly. . . . .

First, the points only open and close. Other than that they don't move. The points are adjusted for gap by being moved L and R then locking down in place with a screw.
Assuming you have a good set of points, set the point gaps to 15 thousandths. The timing is set by rotating the base plate the points are mounted on. Behind the plate is a centrifical advance. Get an inductive pickup timing light and hook it up to the battery. Hook the pick up on the left sparkplug wire.
Start the motor and point the light at the top of the gearbox flywheel. Yes, with the cover removed some oil will spit out. This is normal. Rev the bike and you will see the timing marks. You will also see a static timing mark on the casing. Rotate the points base plate to line up the marks. When you let off the gas the flywheel marks should move counter clockwise. If they don't, then remove the points cover and free up the centrifical advance mechanism. You just timed the engine.

The photo will not open in "FixYa". Email it to me at [email protected]. Would you like to know how to synchronize and balance the carbs?
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