Have a 2000 Suzuki Intruder 800. Back cylinder

SOURCE: vibration

The carbs should be synchronized every 20k miles. If you are having a roughness in idle then I would recommend the carbs being synched. If the problem is at higher RPM's I'd check to see if the motor has a harmonic dampener that can be adjusted. This often resolves vibration issues. I'm just not sure if this bike has one. These big bikes usually have some sort of adjustable dampening device internally.
I'd also like to have you check the motor mounts. This is a common problem if your bike has any rubber in the motor mounts. The rubber wears or even breaks and you often cannot see it until you actually try to remove the mount. Often they will fall apart in your hands.
These big motors all vibrate a bit so many of the manufacturers have realized that adding modified motor mounts is helpful.

SOURCE: Exhaust Pipes on 1995 Suzuki Intruder VS

Hi Lcyr. 
Any changes you make to the exhaust system will alter the sound the bike produces. The more you cut baffles,and open up the exhaust, the louder it will get.  What you do alter to a greater extent,is the state of tune of the motorcycle. Any changes to exhaust or inlet plumbing will require a retune of the engine to suit the modifications. This can be subtle to dramatic. Opening up exhausts can often rob low end power where exhaust port scavaging is relient on some back pressure for maximum effect.
 Best to work directly with an engine tuner to do the mods that are known you can get away with, or buy aftermarket prebuilt pipes that have a known previously tested state of tune. Nothing worse than doing something, that then costs money to put back the way it was on finding out it didnt work as well as was hoped.. Hope this has helped you steer your custom mods a little.  I can say with certainty, that I have ventured to do what you are doing many times in the past, and it has always cost me more money in tuning and... and well more parts :)  Cheers
regards robotek

SOURCE: GSXR 750 Slingshot wont rev past 5000rpm, with or without choke

I have seen this before a few things to do too make sure. First take the air filter out and shine a light use your fingers to move the slides up and down I suspect the springs that go on the slide is not seated in center you can tell from the slide going halfway and hanging up. Next, the boots on the slides only go on 1 way there is a notch on the carbs for them. I would guess this would fix you up if not we can get deeper into it with air-fuel mix screw settings.good luck

SOURCE: 94 suzuki 800 intruder. clutch splips in

No adjusting is possible.
Slip can be caused by several defaults:
- Wrong engine oil ( SAE 10w-40 API SE or SF only )
- Weak clutch springs ( free spring length : 34mm ( 1.34in ) MINIMUM
- Worn clutch disk 2(internal teeths ) ( wear limit 3.15mm ( 0.124in ) ) This is the last disk, against the clutch center
- Worn clutch disks 1 (internal teeths) ( wear limit 2.62mm ( 0.103in ) )
- Clutch plates ( thikcness between 1.55 and 1.65mm / 0.0610 and 0.0649 inches
- Damaged pressure plate ( cracks round the spring holes )

To check the clutch parts, the right engine cover must be removed.
Take attention while loosening the clutch spring bolts!
Drain engine oil, and set engine into first gear ( this locks the clutch for an easy loosening of the spring bolts )

Hope it helps

SOURCE: battery removel for a 2004 suzuki 800 intruder

I know for the models till 2002 where the battery is located in front of the rear wheel.

Place the bike on her side stand
remove the negative battery lead at the left side, just below the transmission tube ( cone ) 10mm socket wrench
On the right side remove the security cap on the positive lead ( cross screwdriver ), then remove the positive lead.
The battery is hold in place with a 'floor plate'. remove both bolts of the floorplate ( on each side ) while holding the palte into place.
gently lower the plate and the battery.

I hope the 2004 model has the same assembly!