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Really need to know how many miles are on it and is it an all original Engine...?...Other than that I understand your problem...It surely sounds like you need a heat shield and shim the starter..I know it has happened to a few mustangs and camaros...That is how I repaired them...Be sure and make sure battery has full power....Shimming will line it up more with flywheel. Everytime the starter engages the gear slides out from the starter and connects the flywheel in order to turn the engine over..,then after it turns the flywheel and starts Is when you release the key and the starter gear slides back into starter..If it gets too hot the starter gear will be weak and not slide as easily....So replace or get a heat shield...Since you will be removing starter to install a good heat shield measure the length of the starter nose and the distance from starter gear to flywheel and shim as needed...Remember you have to allow for the starter gear movement ..
You will need to replace the starter pinion gear (if possible, without replacing the entire starter) and the flywheel at the same time. Make sure they are secured properly and not loose. Use loctite 242 on all the bolts. Could still happen again, but highly unlikely.
In the first place was the new starter tested before this was fitted. Secondly make sure before the new start was fitted that the STARTER SOLENOID WORKS, check the voltage and hear a healthy click.
Also make sure that the flywheel is not worn out and the starter pinion shoudl not JAM into the flywheel when the starter is engaged.
Once this is made sure then all what is needed is a good battery to make the starter do the rest.
Take time to test these points before the starter is fitted. Also the connections of the starter motor and the solenoid must be good. If the starter still fails to engage you might have to look carefully at the flywheel alignment.
Sounds like the Bendix...
You might ought to pull the starter and look at the teeth on both the bendix of the starter and the flywheel.
If the teeth on both are in good shape...then its probably a weak starter not throwing the bendix out to turn the flywheel.
But...if the teeth are **** up on the bendix...its cheaper tp replace it.
Make sure Battery is in good condition as well.
Both battery AND starter can be tested at your local AutoZone...
Hope this helps...
The flywheel key is at least partially sheared. This affects the ignition timing, causing it to fire at the wrong time and the engine kicks back at you while trying to start it with the recoil starter.
The flywheel key is located under the flywheel. The flywheel is the round metal piece with all the fins on it. The flywheel is located under the recoil starter (part that has the pull string). Make sure that you use a soft metal key.
In the event that you do not know how this happened, it usually occurs from hitting something hard with the blades.
Replace the starter before it ruins the flywheel. You have a worn out drive that applies to the flywheel. Flywheels are very very hard to change, in fact you can change 10 or 15 starters in the same time changing one flywheel
It could be either the flywheel or the starter. If it's grinding, don't try it again until you've removed and examined the starter and flywheel. If the starter solenoid isn't fully engaging the bendix, it will cause the gear to grind; replace or rebuild the starter if that's the case. But you should examine the flywheel to see if it is seriously damaged from the problems you've had. Put a mark on the flywheel using a magic marker, then examine the flywheel as you slowly turn the engine by hand. (make certain that the ignition is off when you do that, you don't want anything bad to happen to your hand.) The mark on the flywheel will indicate when you've been able to examine the all of the teeth on the starter ring.
I just changed a 2.4 in my 96. I pulled the whole thing because I coudn't get at the converter to flywheel bolts. After reading further, I saw information to pull the trans out through the drivers wheel well without the engine. They removed the starter to access the flywheel bolts to the converter.
I haven't tried it but it would make sense and it does make it a lot easier. Without the trans attached, you wouldn't need to remove the master cylinder or beat the sh-t out of the battery tray to get the think out.
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