Where can I find a new engine? Cam shaft, cylinder, head are toast. Driven without oil.  Looking for a new top end. Has been bored to 440cc, would like it to go back to original 350.  Would prefer to buy pre-assembled new top end.  Is that possible?

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.

A-series: 1.5L, 1.6L and 1.8L, belt-driven overhead cam motors used in Corollas, later Celicas, early Tercels, Chevy Novas (NUMMI-built), and Geo Prizms;
E-series: 1.4L and 1.5L overhead cam, belt-driven engines used in '88 and up Tercels and Paseos;
F-series: 3.9L, 4.0L, 4.2L, pushrod straight six engines used in Landcruisers;
R-series: 1.8L/2.4L, overhead cam, chain-driven engines used in rear wheel drive only Coronas, older Celicas and pickups;
M-series: 2.2L through 3.0L overhead cam straight six engines used in Cressidas and Supras;
S-series: 2.0L and 2.2L belt-driven OHC engines used in Camrys, Celicas and MR2s;
VZ-series: 2.5L, 3.0L and 3.4L V6 engines used in Camrys, pickups, Lexus ES and T100s;
UZ-series: 4.0L V8 engines used in the Lexus LS400 and SC400.
Toyota manufactures motors from the very small up to large industrial diesels, so this is only a partial listing of the more common engine families. However, hopefully this information will bring some sense of order to the confusing alphabet soup of Toyota engine classifications.
The 2.0LLet's take a look at the 2.0L used in the late '80s Camry & Celica. The code for this engine is 3SFE. The S-series engines are a mid-sized, transverse mounted four-cylinder used in Camrys, Celicas, some MR2s, and other Toyota vehicles. The first letter (after the initial numeral) is an "S" and means that this engine belongs to the "S" group of motors. The "3" signifies the third change in bore/stroke to the S-group of motors.
So, what about other motors? A 3SGE used in the Celica GTS ('86-'89) is the same as the 3SFE in bore and stroke, uses the same block, is also fuel injected, but the cylinder head is a true dual overhead cam with both cams being externally driven. There was also a 3SGTE used in Celica turbos, and MR2 turbos. This is basically the same motor as the 3SGE with the exception of the "T" which stands for turbocharged.
In the S-family of motors that were available in the U.S., there was also a 2SE used in the early Camrys. They had a different bore and stroke and single overhead cam design (no "F" or "G"). Current Camrys are using a 5SFE - externally identical to the 3SFE - except that the bore and stroke have been upped to 2.2L from 2.0L, and a pair of balance shafts were added to the lower end. Toyota's other engine families follow the same pattern. Now for a little more detail on "S" family differences.
The 2SEThe 2SE belongs to the "S"-series engine family. The 2 signifies the second revision of that group of motors. (So where is the 1S-motor? I'm assuming either it was not available in the U.S. or maybe was just a prototype that never entered production). The "E" stands for fuel injected.
The 2SE was first used in the U.S. with the introduction of the front wheel drive Camry. This was a single overhead cam 2.0L motor with bucket tappets with "hockey puck" adjusting discs. Bore and stroke were 84mm (3.307") x 90 mm (3.540"). In 1986 the Celica moved to a front wheel drive platform and it also used the 2SE motor in '86 in the ST and GT models.
The 3SFEFor 1987, the Camry and Celica base motor was changed to a square bore 86mm x 86mm and a "twin cam" head. It was still 2.0L, but the designation was now 3SFE. The 3 obviously meant the 3rd revision of the "S"-series engine family, and the "E" we know to mean EFI.
The "F" code that Toyota uses stands for twin cam or dual overhead cam, however, only one of the cams is externally driven. (Don't confuse this "F" with Toyota's F-series family straight six engine used in Landcrusiers). The 3SFE was used in Camrys from 1987-'91, and in Celicas from '87-'89.
Toyota has actually brought this motor back and it is used in the new mini-sport utility RAV4. I haven't seen any of the motors from the RAV4, so I'm really not sure what differences there are.
For now let's focus on the '87-'91 Camry/Celica version. There are some 4WD Camrys out there, Toyota called them All-Trac, and there should be some differences in the block and head. However, those vehicles should be few and far between. So other than the 4WD cars and the RAV4, the 3SFE application will pretty much fit all years.
There are a few things you should watch out for. These include the following:
•The number of flywheel bolts in the crankshaft. In 1987 there were six, and in '88 and up there were eight. There may be, however, some overlap within those two years;
•The cranks and flywheels are interchangeable. You can either have the customer visually verify the number of flywheel bolts, or you can just furnish the appropriate flywheel (automatic or manual) and not worry about the number of bolts;
•Stiffening ribs were added to the block in '89. The ribs may interfere with the larger older style oil filter. Make sure the new smaller oil filter is used if you use a newer block in an older vehicle.
The 3SGEThe Celica GTS from '86-'89 used a 3SGE motor. Still an "S"-series, it has the same bore and stroke as the 3SFE. The big difference is in the head, hence the "G" instead of the "F". The "G" is a true DOHC with both cams being externally driven, and the valves splayed outwards at a wider angle giving more of a pent-roof design to the combustion chamber. In the lower end, 3SGEs used a steel crankshaft and bushed rods along with different pistons.
The 3SGTEThere is also a 3SGTE used in the All-Trac turbo Celica ('88-'93) and MR2 turbo ('91-'95). The "T" stands for, you guessed it, turbocharged. There are some differences in the block, head, and some of the internal parts that are specific to the turbo motor.
The 5SFEThe 5SFE is a 2.2L with a bigger bore and stroke (87mm x 91mm). This motor was introduced in the Celica and MR2 in 1990 and the Camry in 1992. It was still being used in the Camry in 1997. The 5SFE added a pair of balance shafts in the oil pan driven off of the crankshaft in 1992.
That's a very quick tour of Toyota's "S" series engines. Remember the first number is the revision number of that group. The second digit (letter) is the engine family/grouping. The third digit, if an F or a G, stands for which type of OHC design.
Here's a quick rundown on what parts you can and can't interchange on the 2S and 3S engines:
CRANKSHAFTS•The 2SEs are all six-bolt. The 3SFEs are cast and may be either 6- or 8-bolt.
•The 3SGEs are steel and eight-bolt.
•The 3SGTE: I'm not sure if the turbo motor used the same crank as the non-turbo 3SGE. I think it did, but I'm not 100% sure because I haven't seen any turbo motors.
CONNECTING RODS•The 2SE and 3SFE both use the same press fit rod.
•The 3SGE and 3SGTE both use the same bushed rod.
BLOCKS•The 2SE is a block by itself. It has a unique 84 mm bore.
•The 3SFE and 3SGE blocks may be interchanged, however, be aware of the differences in the later strengthened blocks with additional ribbing.
•The 3SGTE. It would be a good idea to custom build the turbo blocks unless you know specifically more about the differences of the
VZ-FE 2.0L (78mm X 69.5mm): This 2.0L engine was used in the Japanese home market Camry/Vista models and was not available in the United States.
2VZ-FE 2.5L (87.5mm X 69.5mm): This engine was available for Camry 1988-'91 and the Lexus ES250 1990-'91. The 2VZ-FE is a 2.5L version of the "VZ" family. This motor has Toyota's twin cam per head set up, hence the "FE" designation.
North America saw this motor introduced on the FWD 1988 Toyota Camry and 1988 Lexus ES250 (which was really a dressed up Camry). Featuring four valves per cylinder; it put out 156 hp @ 5600 rpm and 160 ft.lbs. of torque @ 4400 rpm.
The design of the motor is basic Toyota from the 1980s, with cast iron block, a one-piece main bearing cradle, aluminum heads and a timing belt driving the intake camshafts, which operate bucket lifters with adjusting discs. The buckets and discs are the same ones used in Toyota's 16-valve A-, S- and M-series.
four camshafts

Remove Engine From Vehicle,
Strip Engine And Wash Clean,
Take Engine Block ,Conrods,Cylinder Head To Machine Shop Ask Them To Check all Sizes For Wear Etc If Worn Beyond Usefull Limits Purchace New Liners And Pistons And Have Them Fit It For You,
Some Times The Bore Changes Shape I.E. Bore Is Oval If So They Do Supply Oversize Chrome Linners So That the Block Can Be Borred Round Before Fitthing New Linners!
Check Crank Shaft And Cam Shaft ,
Cylinder Head Should Be Presure Tested And Vave Guides Checked, Valves Should Be Checked For Wear Seating And Lapped Back In
Injector pump Service And Injectors Serviced
Get Full Overhall Gasket Set New Set Mains and Big End Bearings ,
You Should now Be ready To Re Assemble Your New engine!
Good Luck!

Not really sure about the 5% variance unless you measured cylinder bore. The problem could be in the ring material which could be yet a third metal. Every metal has its own expansion rate. Perhaps the rings were okay for the diameter of the bore, but were they too thin for the grooves in the rings?

Even new engines like the new 600HP Mustang can have bore distortion. The cylinder walls go eliptical when heated. Operating temperature can have a small role, but really you are probably talking about 20 degrees to bring it into a normal range?

You might try using a high temperature Laser thermometer on your exhaust manifolds. This would show if 1 particular cylinder is running hotter. Exhaust manifold shape, tight cylinder bore, etc. but at least you would get the right side or cylinder to start looking for the problem on.

I hope my solution is helpful.

Hi there:A code P0012 refers to the VVT (Variable Valve Timing) or VCT (Variable Camshaft Timing) components and the car's PCM (Powertrain Control Module, also called an ECM).
That consists of a few different components but the P0012 DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is over-********, the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The "A" camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft.

A P0012 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:

- Incorrect camshaft timing

- Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system

- Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber

- Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)

On Ford, the VCT solenoid is located at top of cylinder head underneath the valve cover and goes around one camshaft. You will need to remove the valve cover, the timing cover, then remove the timing belt, the camshaft sprockets, and finally the camshafts to remove the vct solenoid as it goes around the camshaft. You can use 2001-2003 models with same engine.

VCT or Variable Cam Timing solenoid is a device used in modern engines to change camshaft position timing in relevance to engine speed and engine timing allowing the engine to produce more horsepower without adding excessive overlap to the camshaft design.

The way the VCT Solenoid works is as follows:
The VCT solenoid works with oil pressure, it receives a signal from the ECM when the camshaft needs to be rotated either in the advanced mode or ******** mode depending on engine load and speed.The VCT solenoid is able to accomplish that by altering the oil flow in the passages that lead to the cam phaser(s), there are passages to advance the valve timing ( open the valves earlier), and passages that direct the oil to ****** the valve timing ( open them later)

The purpose of the VCT or Variable Cam Timing system is to allow the engine to move larger volumes of air in and out of the cylinders to generate maximum horsepower.
Vehicles with DOHC ( Dual Overhead Cam ) engines usually have two VCT solenoids mounted in each cylinder head, one for each camshaft, allowing the Engine Control Computer to activate each VCT timing mechanism in each Camshaft separately.
NOTE: The Cam phaser is mounted on the front of the camshaft(s) it is driven by the engine's timing chain or timing belt depending on the engine's design.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

IF YOU REPLACED THE HEADS WITH REBUILT/NEW HEADS:
A side effect of increasing compression when you bolt on fresh heads, is broken piston rings. It's beneficial to replace the rings & bearings and at least remove the ring ridge at the top of the cylinder wall if not re-bore when replacing heads due to the higher compression that will cause.


If you just put on a set of used heads.

There's also the chance that the new headgaskets didn't seal completely, (usually due to a problem with surface prep or a warped head/block), but if you've got high mileage, it's usually the rings.

A set of rings can be replaced, but you'll want to make sure they haven't cut into the bore so much as to cause blow-by once new rings are installed. Eliminating the ridge by carefully using a ridge reamer at the top of the cylinder to prevent breakage of the top ring from impact.
Hone the cylinder walls gently & reinstall pistons & new rings!
Good luck.

I've had a few of these engines break the cam shaft after cylinder #4. meaning #5 & #6 have no compression, but also no oil pressure due to no oil pump drive from cam shaft. 2 out of 3 times the engine was toast. If it truly skipped the timing, then you will need a timing chain and sprockets. When the timing skips or the cam shaft breaks, the pistons will definitely hit the valves and bend them, thus no compression. I'd recommend tearing down the engine yourself and determine what went. To check the cam shaft, remove the front valve cover and watch the rockers for cylinder #6, if they don't move then broken cam shaft.

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

in adition to the above coment, which i must say is spot on, the posability of a used barel and piston if a new piston is not available could be worth considering, other things you may wish to check on that particular engine is camshaft seizure, in a uk bike it runs directly in the machined surface of the cylinder head, oil failure due to blocked oil filter has severe consequenses, located on the l/h side of the engine under a 22 or 24mm spaner head cap just below the gear change lever, this is a washable filter retained by a cap and spring, correct replacment is inperitive. are you located in UK? HOPE THIS HELPS YOU

Remove oil pan and pump is bolted to back main bearing cap. But this is most likely not the problem. This engine is known for cam bearings spinning out of the block and cam shaft breaking inbetween #3 and 4 cam journals, oil pump is driven off the end of camshaft, engine runs very rough and makes all kinds of noise when this happens, cure is a new engine. to check for broken cam shaft removed front valve cover, have some one start or crank the engine, the 2 rocker arms on the drivers side will not move at all, most likely there will be silver metal dust laying in the low spots of the head where oil puddles up.