Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket,
drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to
tell which you have so:
Barring a failure of the clutch basket,
a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN
ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise.
Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell
Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a
gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps
going...
The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise
if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda
Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will
eliminate that aggravation.
Hypoid gears in the final drive can
also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement
shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will
quiet or eliminate the whine.
Splines and pins in the final
drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear
wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and
in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I
relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.
LATE NOTE!!!!
I've always warned people
away from oils that were labeled "energy conserving", but lately I've
noticed that those same oils no longer carry that label. I've been
seeing a new seal on the same oils; on the outside of the seal are the
words "American Petroleum Institute" on the top, "Certified" on the
bottom, and in the center of the seal are the words "For Gasoline
Engines", and - surprise, surprise! - they ALL contain molybdenum
disulfide, the stuff that makes clutches slip.
Check the bottles of the oil that you're considering for use in your
motorcycle. If you see the API seal, keep going. Unfortunately, a
member named "rasolheim" is learning the hard way how expensive an
error like that can be; I hope that I can warn others before they make
the same mistake.
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SOURCE: 2007 xvz1300 Royal Star Venture gear whine at 50-60mph
Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:
Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...
The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.
Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.
Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.
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