I own a 1984 Honda Elite scooter I can hold the front wheel with my legs and align the steering by twisting it. Now the front wheel just almost flops around as though it is disconnected from the steering handle bar. It turn about 20 or 30 degrees before it stops. I have parked it until I manage to solve the steering problem. I went on line and looked up the manual. I can see some kind of bolt or nut at the top of the handle bay that may solve the problem if it is tightened. That's about where I am at this point. Would appreciate any help I can get Nick Campbell: [email protected]

hi Martin, check the two outside balance wheels , they rods that steer them in align with the main front wheel can be become bent at worse loose....I feel the scooter is dangerous when this happens , i seen this many times and you need to tip the scooter on it's back and start looking a the alignment of the front wheel in reference to the two outside wheels , hopefully if nothing not bent or broken you will be able to align them correctly again... be warned in this situation the scooter can not steer correctly ...

Sorry i never seen any kind of manual for this scooter that is helpful...

if you require further assistance don't hesitate to contact me please...

Regards
Rob

www.gewizrepairs.co.uk

Hi,
You probably 'tweaked' the forks and tires. If possible, place the front tire against something solid such as a wall or post, and twist the bars back to straight. Obviously the wheel needs placed on the correct side so you're twisting them in the direction that straightens the bars.

GL,
TD

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

The most likely source of the noise is your front wheel bearings or the front springs for the suspension. Each front wheel has an inner and outer wheel bearing which is sealed but can develop noise over time. If you can, block up the scooter and spin the wheel in the air. If you hear noise it is either a noisy bearing or you need to remove the wheel and grease the spindle (axle) the wheel is mounted to. The wheel bearings need to be punched out and replaced with the same size bearings from the manufacturer or a bearing store.
While the scooter is off the ground check the steering linkages and spray lubricate them. Also, lubricate the springs and anything else that moves or pivots. If the steering tiller squeaks at the head tube frame (steering column) upper or lower bearings you have a more technical repair. That involves loosening the lock-nuts for the steering column dropping the lower front frame assembly to either repack with grease or replace the bearings. You would also have tor remove the upper tiller assembly and get it aligned on reassembly.
You should be able to hear and isolate the noise once you have the front end blocked up off the ground. Hope this helps.

Really the safest way to do it is with a front-end alignment. A part called the Pitman arm is attached to the steering box. It has grooves cut in it and matches the indentations in the box. You remove the arm from the box and slide it off, then center the steering wheel and reattach the arm.

The difficult part is separating the arm from the box. The nut sizes are substantial and sometimes required a puller and heat. The problem is the steering wheel should have been centered at an alignment shop.

Assuming the steering wheel started out centered, the tierod ends, tierods, and any links are now worn or bent causing the steering wheel to be out of place.
Your alignment could be off with one side or the other having too many twists or too few. This is a sign that the tierod ends were changed since the last alignment.

Your best and safest bet is to get a good front-end alignment and tell them you want the steering wheel centered and tires aligned.

STAND IN FRONT OF THE BIKE FACING THE HEADLIGHT. STRADDLE THE FRONT WHEEL AND CLAMP THE WHEEL BETWEEN YOUR LEGS. NOW "TWIST" THE HANDLEBARS TO A STRAIGHT POSITION. IT MAY REQUIRE A FEW TWEAKS BUT THE PROCESS IS NOT HARD.

First, support the bike so that the front wheel is off the ground. Then, loosen (do not remove, just loosen them) the bolts that clamp the fork tubes into the upper and lower triple clamp braces. Loosen the front axle attachments to the fork legs. Now stand in front of the bike and hold the front wheel between your knees and turn the handlebars until they are straight - and re-tighten everything. Also, check the large nut on top of the steering stem, making sure it is tight.

Fix it just like you would on a bicycle> stand in front of the bike facing the bars with the wheel straight forward and held tightly between your legs. Grab the bars and firmly twist them in the direction needed to line them back up. Re-check the alignment and repeat if needed. Tighten the triple clamps on the fork legs a bit and you are done.

Typically you would loosen the triple clamps that hold the fork tubes, trap the front wheel or have some on hold it and re align the wheel with the handle bars and re tighten. The challenge with a scooter is removing covers to gain access the triple clamp.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed