I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN I HAD MY BIKE , WHEN YOU TRY TO START WITH ELECTRIC START THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AND NOTHING ELSE , MINE WAS A FAULTY STARTER RELAY (ABOUT 15 POUND) , ONCE I CHANGED THIS IT STARTED STRAIGHT AWAY!! , ITS EITHER THAT OR YOU NEED A NEW STARTER MOTOR (ABOUT 30 POUND)I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN I HAD MY BIKE , WHEN YOU TRY TO START WITH ELECTRIC START THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AND NOTHING ELSE , MINE WAS A FAULTY STARTER RELAY (ABOUT 15 POUND) , ONCE I CHANGED THIS IT STARTED STRAIGHT AWAY!! , ITS EITHER THAT OR YOU NEED A NEW STARTER MOTOR (ABOUT 30 POUND)
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Either get the bike up high on a stand, or crawl underneath and look with a torch. Wipe clean with tissues or rags, and then view after a run to see where the leak may be....crankcase gasket, head gasket, or oil thrown from the chain whilst riding....if you over-oil the chain. Whatever, needs work done urgently in case you seize up on a run which will caost a lot more to rectify.
oh boy, some people??? why oh why did you not just stop when the light come on in the first place??? yes its most likly to be the oil warning light screeming at you to stop and turn the motor off,,,red = danger!!!!!
its going to cost you now to fix this bike big time too
buy a more tensioned spring thats very dangerous aswell for now but a cable tie around the stand to stop this my dads bike done this and smashed into a wall he couldnt lean over
When an engine seizes you really have done great harm to it. My advice is to pull the motor and split the cases to inspect crank, and other parts. Invest in new cylinder & piston (w\rings) at the very least. It is more likely that you are going to need some new bearings and machine work. Sorry for the bad news...but that is exactly what seizing an engine is, bad news.
Know that most shops will probably refuse to do repairs on your bike if it is more than 10 years old. Most all shops use this same standard. Parts availability is the main problem. In any event, below are things to look for if getting a used bike. Does the engine start easy and idle smoothly? Does it accelerate without hesitation? Any smoke when it starts or when pulling away from stop light? (Bad valve guides). Any smoke when riding at 30mph? (Piston rings worn or possible previous seize up). Does the clutch engage and disengage smoothly? Clutch lever easy to pull? Any oil or coolant fluids leaking after a ride? Do all gages work? Lights, horn and flashers? Any red lights on the gages lit up? Any computer codes flashing? Do front and back brakes operate and stop smoothly? Is the motor oil pretty clean or really dirty? (Sign of how well the owner has cared for the bike). Is the oil "white-ish"? (water in the oil. If motor is water cooled it's usually bad water pump seals). Any funny sounds from the gear box? Anywhere else? Does it shift smoothly up and down the full gear range? Neutral light come on properly? Sprockets still have rounded tips not pointed? Well lubricated chain? Good tires? How old is the battery? All lights work properly? Is the upholstery good? Plastics cracked or broken? Gas tank badly rusted inside? Do the wheels run true or weave? Do the forks look bent from a side view or front view? Does it drive nice or is the bike squirrely to drive? How about around curves and corners? Ever been wrecked? What service work has been done in the past? With the handlebars driving straight ahead, is the front wheel pointing a slightly different direction? Do all accessories work properly? Ask what doesn't work on the bike. What known problems do exist? . These are things to look for. I hope this helps. A “very helpful” rating for this answer?Thanks!
I will guess that your bike cut off when you put it in gear because you still had the kickstand down. That is normal, it is a safety feature to keep you from riding away with it down and crashing when you make a left turn and the kickstand hits the ground.
To check your oil you have a sight glass. Stand the bike straight up and down and have someone look in the sight glass, it is probably on the lower part of the bike on the right side. The oil level should be above the middle, but not covering the whole glass.
Try this process. Go out to the bike, turn on the key and put it in neutral. Check your kill switch, make sure that is in the run position. Now try and start the bike and report back with what happens. Does it turn over but won't start? Does it refuse to turn over? Do the lights come on the instrument cluster for a few seconds, then go out except for the low oil pressure light (normal for that to stay on unless the bike is running.
everything working perfect.
Wednesday night i was riding home from work and got about halfway home bike had a small bog while coming up for a turn onto another street pulled in the clutch and stall. Rolled to a stop and fired the magic button. The motor would turn over and act like it wanted to run (had to give a small amount of throttle) for about 2-3 seconds and then would die. Did this about 5 times and the typical dead or low batter clicking occured.
Got the bike home and it has been on the tender for the last 2 days and i just put some time in on the bike and sure enough bike will turn over although kida sputtering and making slight backfire sounds (almost as if timing is off) and will run for about 2-3 seconds and dies. I can do this about 4-5 times and the infamous clicking starts to happen again. Now my bike has never been a cold start bike, i always have to give it a bit of throttle when its cold to keep it running, but once it warms up runs like a champ...or atleast it used to. Its a fairly new battery and has been kept on the tender when the bike is not used for a few days. Now the other thing that bothers me is it seems that oil may be seeping out from where the head and the case meet, but very little. The motor does have a slight coating of oil around the gasket area. I did send the motor to ATK back in late 04 or 05 and had the reliability and upgrade done to it but have only about 500 total miles on it since then, with about 400 of those in the last coulple of months.
,Even with a good bike battery 4-5 tries is about all they have.So forget about the battery and go with basics fuel,compression and spark.
Also sounds like you need some mapping help, you should never have to touch the throttle when starting. The will run perfect if they are tuned.
Do you know what map is in it? Did ATK also change the ECU to a .atj map?,,,
but it is a motorcycle.
Am waiting for the taller sidestand too. A bit of a push to get her
upright.Congrats!!!!!!!! I run Motul semi 15w-50. Try the Givi windshield...Big difference for me at 6'2.,,
×