My son replaced a gasket on the right side of the bike.After that he was unable to shift any gears. the shifter pedal seem to have dropped down a couple inches lower than it was before.It is on the opposite side of the bike.

Left side is rear shifter pushed all the way forward is 1st the easiest gear shifting down (pulling toward u)changes it in to a lower harder,faster gear .,., as with the front with it on the smaller gear it will be the easiest to pedal in all rear gears., moving it up to larger gear will make it harder to pedal and go faster.,., hope this helps

The way I start inexperienced rider out is by using only the left shifter first. Take a ride and only shift the left side up and down. Remember to pedal when shifting, Backpedaling or coasting may cause the chain to come off. Once you are familiar the left shifter, move to the right one. Up and down several times. Most experienced riders don't use all of the gears and only use the lower gears I steep hilly situatiuons

Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

You've got the right idea. You need to pull the primary cover and take a look at the shifter pawl. As long as all external shifter parts are moving as they should, the problem is probably in the shifting mechanism inside the primary. You may have to pull the clutch assembly off to get to it.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi Art! First of all, congratulations on your 1967 Triumph... that's a beauty!!!

Basic things to know before riding a bike is it's parts.

Clutch is the lever you press on the left side of the handle bar.

Front disc brake is the lever on the right side of the handle bar.

Shifter is the one you're stepping on when shifting gears and is located on the left side of the engine if you're on it.

Now, you must first know if the gear is on Neutral by pushing the bike before starting the bike. If it's hard to push then the shifter is not in neutral. Press the shifter by your left foot until you are able to push the bike with ease.

Hop on the bike and start the engine. Most bikes have ignition starters but if your bike doesn't have one, then you have to turn keys to on position and use the kick starter. Rev the engine by pressing the throttle grip on the right side of the handle bar.

Engine is running and in idle position. Press the Clutch lever (left hand) and press the shifter once (left foot) DO NOT RELEASE THE CLUTCH YET!!!

Slowly press the throttle with your right hand until you hear or feel the engine purr...

Slowly release the clutch (left hand) until you fell the bike move forward.

If I am not mistaken, shifting the gears of the triumph is 1-down and 4 up...

Every time you shift gears, you need to press the clutch to release the gears.

Hope you'll have fun!!!

Ride safe my friend!!!

Don't forget your riding gears!!!

^_^

Congrats on your purchase of a new bike! Shimano 105's are quality components and will last you many years. Now, to your question - first, there is no gear indicator on most quality road bikes - and really you don't need one. You should let your cadence (how fast you are pedaling) determine what gear you are in....i.e. if you are struggling to pedal then shift down and vice versa if it's "too easy" - don't worry about what gear you're in - just go by feel. As far as shifting the right shifter controls the back gears (cassette) and the left controls the front (crank).

You don't mention which shifter(s) malfunction or if you're even pedaling the bike while shifting (I make NO assumptions).

If you operate the inner shift lever (NOT the brake lever) on each side through several clicks that should RELAX any tension in the shifter cables. Then if you pick the bike up and pedal it forward a couple of turns the front shifter should drop the chain the the lowest chainring and the rear derailleur should shift out the the smallest cog.

With the bike suspended (say, hanging from a low tree branch by the tip of the seat) you should be able to turn the cranks and manually pull sideways on either exposed shifter cable where it runs down along the downtube then release it.

This should cycle each respective derailleur through its entire range. If the cables don't travel sufficiently in this manner, the shifters will never make them do it either.

Perhaps you could CALL the Bike Shop and they would talk you through a quick operational check.

I would start out with the left gear set to 2 and the right shifter set to 4 or 5. If that's too difficult, then shift the left gear to 1.

Most people really don't shift gears on bikes much and that's a shame because it can make cycling much easier. I would advise you to take some time to learn about shifting as it will make riding much easier, especially if there are any hills around.

The left hand shifter is for the 3 large gears in between your pedals. This shifter produces the biggest change in effort. As a general rule, use the first one for uphills, the middle for flats and the last one for downhills. Of course this is all relative to your conditioning. You should attempt to maintain a pedaling cadence of 75-90 (in general) so that you always feel like the pedals are spinning and that you are not grinding it out. The right hand shifter is for the 7 gears on the rear of the bike and are used for smaller changes. Here is a link that will provide more detailed info on this subject. Happy cycling!

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Did your bike shift gears prior to installing the new shift lever? Why did you replace the lever? If the bike was dropped and the shift lever damaged, the shifting mechanism inside the engine may have been damaged as well. This mechanism will probably be on the primary drive side of the engine and you'll probably have to pull the clutch drum to get to it.