Question about 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

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1999 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja not starting after a run

Hi, I have a Kawasaki ZX6R G2 with new battery fitted fully charged starts the first time but when out for a ride with lights on stop for ten minutes and the engine turns over slowly have to bump it.The next time I stop its all ok starts again the first time would this be a fault with the regulator rectifier can you help please Many thanks Snake@

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  • kawasaki Master
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Hi, Snake before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
CHARGING PROBLEMS think
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Nov 02, 2017

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  • Contributor
  • 3 Answers

My first check would be the battery to earth connection...... High resistance is a real no-no - strip, clean, re-attach to frame.

Posted on Nov 02, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: kawasaki zx6r 1997 slight misfiring

check your intake and exhaust valves.when was the last time you adjusted them?

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kawasaki vulcan 800 classic will not start now

Sometimes after trying to start a bike with a weak battery the starter solenoid gets damaged,or loose connections develop on the solenoid due to heat.It should be next to the battery.

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Kawasaki Mule 3010, keeps getting flat battery, wont jump start

Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

>spaztech<
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: My 2007 Kawasaki KFX50 starts and idles fine, but

Unrelated Recall Alert: CLICK ME

Some articles I have read suggest removing the stock auto-choke carb and replacing it with a Honda CT70 Carb. Check with a local shop to verify, I do not own either and am just passing along the info.

Another solution suggested by 'OneRide': Try it with the gas cap off. The tank vent might be plugged. Possibly plugged fuel filter. Are you using the choke correctly?

This seems to be a very common problem and no 'one' solution to fix it.

I hope this helps.

-spaz

www.leeds-pc.com


Posted on Nov 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: the battery continues to die it will not recharge

it happened to me and it was the light bulb. someone had changed for a super bright blue. make sure there is no non standard electrical equipment on the bike. Also you only get a year to 18months out of a battery for this bike.

Posted on Apr 14, 2010

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1 Answer

1997 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja service manual


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2000 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja will not turn over


Hi, Mike before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

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Hi, Gonzales2015 before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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Hi, C_adi86 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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