Question about 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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Replaced starter relay and stater in yamaha 1100 2001 v star

Replaced starter relay and stater and battery in yamaha 1100 and the relay clicks but won;t engage the starter .

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  • Anonymous Jan 23, 2010

    I .tried that but it still clicks I can crank it if I use a sepperate battery directly to starter. the main battery ground looks good.I can;t see where there are any other grounds. the clicking is more like steady buzz .I don;t know if I,m missing something

  • Anonymous Jan 24, 2010

    none of that works already tried it

  • Kiefer Aaron Sullivan
    Kiefer Aaron Sullivan Dec 05, 2012

    try wiggling the starter wire. i had the same problem with mine and it turned out that the wire was loose

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Charge battery to full, start in neutral, still clicks? Bad ground, or bad connection. Jump starter solenoid with screwdriver,etc. if motor turns over the relay is bad. Chaz Moto DC

Posted on Jan 22, 2010

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2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Silverado no electrical power


Hi, Kurtis before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
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2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic will not start only clicks


Hi, Gilbert before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a jumper wire or small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
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Hi, Steve before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
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1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Hamsq and the usual suspects are:
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2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test, your battery may show 12.5 volts but has little or zero amps and must be replaced.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/9371-good-battery-no-power-1100-v-star.html
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Hi, Harry before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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