Lost power assist for brakes and the engine RMP increased to approximately 2800 RPM. Both problems occured at the same time.

Prior to 1974 (HP @ RPM): 135 @ 2800 ------
After 1974, they increased the HP. (140HP @ 2800 rpm.)

Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!

Catch?
cranks fast
starts every time.
idles fine hot or cold , or both? hot idle not too fast.
i race engine , in park and neutral, I can hit 3500 rpm easy, can you.
i release brakes, (brakes are not packed in ICE , are they?)
I select 1gear or reverse (A/T or m/t)
the car moves or dont move, which is it, my guess catch = no move at all.
I try to drive, i look at RPM and MPH
RPM moves up and MPH track.
track means they both move in a linear progression.
RPM rises and for all RPM increases MPH also increases.
does it?
if all that works then we have an engine power issue.
weak on hills?

it sounds like it is in safe mode it will start in 2 nd when it dose
you need to have it scaned

What is the idling RPM of the engine when this is happening? There are many different types of power steering systems out there these days on vehilcles. It would make it a bit easier if we had a little more information before we give you advice. Year, Make Model, Milage, ect...Any other known issues with vehilce? Yes, the most likely culprit could be the pump because as time goes on the internal pump compoinents start to wear down and the tolerances become to great and at low rmp it cannot keep the proper pressure needed to give adequate power assist to the steering gear.
Hope this helps
Sincerely'
Roger

hello there
can you check if your distributor advance plate is free of movent?
Or your vacuum hose for advance is working(the one on the right)Check your timming as well.it is 5 before tdc.
Check this out and get back to me with an email
Seems like your idle get stuck on high rmp right?
Let me know what do you mean tick over?
[email protected]

proporsche

ever heard of a $5 automotive stethoscope
sold in all car parts stores?
you can listen to each thing on front of any engine
and learn WHO is talking
so easy.

Inspect brake booster vacuum line from engine intake to brake booster for leaks also inspect brake booster check valve, more than likely your brake booster is causing a vacuum leak to your Intake thus leaning mixture wich increases idle rpm

Have the machanic check the catalyst converter.

Hi, Does the car have a problem changing gears? Does the RMP fluctuate rapidly? By the way, I have the same car. I encounter almost the same problem as you. The mechanic put the car under diagnostic and that I needed to change three sensors. Of course I did not agree to that because logically it did not make sense that all three sensor failed. I took the car to another shop, they said the same thing. I am very stubborn so I did not have them change the sensors. I know the problem could be from lack of oxygen or fuel. I decide to clean the MAP sensor. As soon as I clean the sensor, the car start to run like it was a brand new car. The HP increased, the pick up increased. All because the dust built-up blocked the sensor from given an acurate reading. Let me know if your RMP is fluctuate rapidly. Thanks, Mike