Just looking for a diagram showing how to re-assemble the rear end after replacing a tyre. I have put it back together but it dosnt look right. Small gap between rear fork and wheel axle like im missing a tiny spacer. Tightened up as much as possible???

talking carby
the needle is the bit with a rubber insert at the pointy end
the other end has a hollow drilled in it
into this end a spring will go then a small plunger with a weal spring attached to the end
put the assembled needle into the body and place the bent section of the spring on the needle over the tang of the float arm ( small bit bent down and back on the float arm
position the float arm and push the pivot pin through the bady and the float arm ends and to the other side of the body
the action of the float as the fuel vibrates is absorber by the weak spring holding the needle plunger to the float
If you cannot under stand this then get any book with a carby
section and you will see from the diagram how to put it together
90% of carbys will have the same set up so the manual doesn't have to be specific for your job.

Go to the link to find wiring diagrams. http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

take the car to a suspension specialist shop and have the rear wheels aligned first
have the suspension checked for worn mounts or bad springs
it is very important that the rear end is aligned before the front end
suspect that the suspension rubbers need replacing as it is over 6 years old
the tyre rotation is a myth perpetrated on drivers to sell tyres
when the tyre construction was cross-ply and not radials yes rotation then on cross-ply tyres could get the wear to even out but with radials once the wear is started then the tyre continually wears in that pattern regardless of which wheel it is on
even if you take that tyre of the car and put it on a trailer , it will still continue to wear in that pattern
tyres are no longer rotated but simply put front to back on the same side other wise the belts flex in a new direction in the tread and fail earlier that expected
besides that fact that tyre rotation will not allow you to monitor for suspension problems or wheel alignment problems and cost you 4 tyres at a time instead of two

looks like you broke the enrichner plunger and needle off in carb body, you should be able to get it out with a little finesse, the assembly is replaceable. try a set of small needle nose pliers or some picks, just try not to damage the carb body. you can see a diagram of the carb and parts for this at BikeBandit.com. they even have the new part for like $46.73. hope it works

These are standard Bendix self energising rear drum brakes. Pictures of the assembly with exploded views can be seen here....

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

The real difficulty with doing the re-assembling is not where the parts go, but getting it all back in place. There is a technique to use. If you have problems, get back here again.

you are going to need i believe a 15 or 17 mill box-end werench. Find the tensioner pully. it looks like two small pulleys attatched by an aluminum bar. put the wrench on the pully that dosnt move that looks like it is bolted to the engine and pull one way ot the other and it will loosen the belt. Under your hood there should be a white sticker with a diagram on how to put the new accessor/ serpenitne belt on. If you are having troubles before you try this go to your local autozone or checker auto parts and have them show you. Usually they are nice enough to help out.

Auto Zone usually has a diagram on there computer ...showing all the springs etc. to re-assemble a drum break .

It sounds like your self-adjusters are not assembled correctly allowing them to back off when braking.

Go to autozone.com Type in what car you have. then go to the repair section it will have a diagram of how to put it back together.

HI, I found something on amazon. here: Crossman Air Guns Model 760 Pumpmaster Owner Manual English spanish... . I hope I have helped. cheers