1992 FLHS, REAR BRAKE DOES NOT WORK, PADS ARE GOOD, LINES ARE INTACT, FRONT BRAKE WORKS FINE, WHEN YOU MASH THE PEDAL IT GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, ADTMENT IS GOOD.PLEASE HELP,.

bleed the brakes again starting at the longest line at the rear and work forward . The indication is still air in the lines.

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

must be something you have overlooked. clamp off the front brake hoses and rear hose. if you dont have the propper clamps use g clamps or locking pliars. try the pedal then. if it still goes to the floor its either air in the lines or the master cylinder is no good..Bleed the master cylinder at the lines first,then work back.

Some Toyotas need to be cross-bled. You should also check your bleeder valves to make sure you tightened them securely. Look for leaks at the master cylinder and possibly a rear wheel cylinder. Re-bleed the system.

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

First option is to check with your local dealer about the recall. They may tell you to bring it in for service under that tech bulletin.

Failing that, it sound like a master cylinder problem. Can you pump the brakes up at all? Does the pedal feel "spongy"? If you can pump them up, and the pedal is not spongy, then it is a high probability that you need to replace your master cylinder.

How long has it been since the front pads and rear shoes were replaced? If it has been awhile, you could be due a replacement. As the pads wear down, more of your brake fluid stays in the calipers, causing a low level condition in the master cylinder, allowing air into the system.

Try these options, and let me know what happens.

Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Try the following to confirm if is the servo unit .( engine off,pump few times the brake pedal to become stiff.Keeping pressed the pedal start the engine and if servo is working you will feel the pedal slightly goes down.If not will not move at all-remain stiff.) Also if you do have the check valve close to servo not working you can realize it by the engine idle ( erratic ) and the servo not working.The other possibility if the vehicle is fitted,the ABS unit itself.

Let the fluid out of the master cylinder or from a line. If the pedel  then goes down w/o the fluid, then the booster is working ok. Rebuild or replace the master cylinder. 

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?