How to remove carburetor air box - 1985 Suzuki GSX 550 ES

Repositioning a carburetor on a 1996 Honda Accord V6 may involve a few steps. Here is a general guide on how to reposition a carburetor on a Honda Accord V6:

1. Disconnect the battery: Before you begin any work, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to avoid electrical shock or damage to the electrical system.
2. Locate the carburetor: The carburetor is usually located on top of the engine and is connected to the air intake system.
3. Remove the air intake system: To access the carburetor, you may need to remove the air intake system that connects the carburetor to the air filter box.
4. Disconnect the fuel line: Once you have access to the carburetor, disconnect the fuel line that connects to the carburetor.
5. Disconnect the throttle cable: The throttle cable is usually connected to the carburetor and controls the throttle valve. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor.
6. Remove the carburetor mounting bolts: The carburetor is usually mounted on the engine using bolts. Remove the mounting bolts that secure the carburetor to the engine.
7. Reposition the carburetor: Once the carburetor is loose, you can reposition it to your desired location. Make sure it is level and aligned with the other engine components.
8. Reinstall the carburetor: After repositioning the carburetor, reinstall it in the reverse order of the steps above. Tighten the mounting bolts, reconnect the throttle cable and fuel line, and reattach the air intake system.
9. Reconnect the battery: Finally, reconnect the battery and start the engine to check that the carburetor is working properly.

Note: If you are not experienced in car mechanics, it is recommended to seek professional help from a certified mechanic.

Remove the air box cover and remove the air filter. You will see 2 screws going into the carburetor. These 2 screws hold the carburetor onto the saw. You must use care (and take a couple pictures) to see how the linkage fits back onto the carburetor. You will also see the choke and kill button on the left hand side. Take you time and you should be fine. The throttle linkage is the hard part.

Remove the air box and air filter. The 2 screws holding on the carburetor are right on the outside of the carburetor. The screws go through the carburetor through the intake boot and into the cylinder.

Float in bottom of carburetor is stuck .remove bowl from bottom of carburetor clean float with it in place with carburetor cleaner put bowl back on test run .check make sure you change oil and filter and replace spark plugs.

fiddly job
but easy to do
remembering what bolt and plug goes where
you will have to remove your petrol tank and air filter box
fuel tank has 3 bolts 1 at the bottom 2 at the top by the head stock
slowly remove the fuel tank remembering to turn off the stop tap
and remove the fuel pipe and the fuel gauge sensor wire

air filter box
under the air filter box
there are four banjo clamps
that hole the air intake tubes to the carburetors
undo these four screws and remove the air filter box

you will then see where your idle cable is located
just replace the idle adjust cable and reassemble the
air filter box and fuel tank in the reverse way you took it apart

There could be many reasons for your problem but most likely the pilot jet is clogged, there is no voltage on the idle solenoid switch or the solenoid is short or defective.
To solve the problem please do the following:
- Firstly disconnect the solenoid connector, switch on the ignition and measure the harness side voltage with digital multimeter. It should read 11.5 - 12.5 volts. If there is no voltage, check the fuse and wiring.
- If it is found OK, remove the air filter box, remove the carburetor, remove the carburetor top by unscrewing the top Philips type screws.
- Look into the main carburetor body from top, there you would find a brass screw in one of the holes, this is the pilot jet.
- Unscrew the jet with flat type screw driver. Look through it. If you cannot see light through it, it is clogged. Clean it with compressed air.
- Clean up the hole in top plate, clean the whole carburetor and put every thing back nicely.
- Warm up the engine and adjust the idle air mixture and idle speed.

Instructions

1. • 1 Remove the seat by unscrewing the bolts found on the four corners of the seat. Remove the clamps from the top of the air box using a pair of pliers to access and remove the air filter. The air filter is removed by unscrewing the wing nut and sliding the filter out of the box. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold, using a screwdriver.
     
   • 2 Loosen the fuel delivery hose clamp with a screwdriver and pull the carburetor out of the Blaster. Before troubleshooting the carburetor, it's important to note whether you've made a significant change in altitude or a change in your exhaust/intake setup. If you've made an altitude change, installed an aftermarket exhaust pipe or modified your air box, the jets will need to be changed. Refer to your manual for specific re-jetting instructions based on your altitude. Your exhaust kit will provide a recommended jetting setup. Do-it-yourself modifications like removing an air box will require you to experiment with the jet setup until you find the right one.
     
   • 3 Disassemble the carburetor by unscrewing the bowl screws from the bottom of the carburetor. With the bowl removed, the float, pilot jet and main jet will be exposed. To remove the pilot and main jet, unscrew them from their respective holes. The main jet will sit in the exact center of the bowl, while the smaller pilot jet will be set just below the main jet.
     Use a blunt object like a stick or rod to push the bottom of the needle receiver assembly out of the carburetor. The needle receiver (which houses the needle jet) will slide out of the top of the carburetor along with the slide, spring, carburetor cap and gasket. The carburetor is now completely disassembled and ready to be inspected.
     
   • 4 Inspect the pilot jet for blockage, slide a thin wire through the pilot jet's hole, spray it with carburetor spray and blow the center hole with compressed air. Repeat this process with the main jet. If there is any blockage or wear, replace the jets. If you have made altitude changes or exhaust/intake modifications, insert jets that correspond to your changes as recommended in your manual. Note that this may take some experimentation with different jets to get the correct jet setup, as there are many jet sizes for different scenarios.
     
   • 5 Inspect the bowl, floats and ports for any signs of debris or gunk. If debris or gunk is found, remove it using a spray carburetor cleaner, soft wire brush, or thin wire (to insert into small orifices). If no gunk or debris is found, you've ruled this out as a possible cause for the starting issues, and can focus on the replacement of carburetor components.
     
   • 6 Look for abnormal wearing on the jets, float valve, gaskets, O-rings and springs. If you have not changed altitude or modified your bike in any way, then it is best to inspect these components. Any one of these components, or a combination, may be contributing to your starting issues. You may choose to replace individual parts such as a new float valve, though replacing all the interior components with a carburetor "rebuild kit" is advised. Rebuild kits can be ordered online or through your dealer, and will ensure your carburetor is fully repaired.
     
   • 7 Slide the gasket, spring, spring holder and needle jet assembly back onto the carburetor cap and insert the assembly into the top of the carburetor. Screw the main jet into the bottom of the needle jet assembly by accessing it through the bowl area. Screw the pilot jet back into its hole below the main jet. Clip the float valve onto its hinge within the bowl a insert the bowl gasket. Screw the bowl to the bottom of the carburetor to complete the re-assembly process.
     
   • 8 Re-attach the carburetor to the intake manifold using the hose clamp and screwdriver. Slide the fuel feeder line onto the brass receiver port on the side of the carburetor and slide the air box boot over the carburetor's intake port, which should be facing toward the back of the bike. Re-install the air filter with its wing nut, slide the clips over the air box top to secure it to the box and slide the seat into place. Re-install the seat screws to complete the re-assembly process.
     
   • 9 Prime the carburetor by twisting the throttle once and start the Blaster.
     

Instructions

1. • 1 Lift the CBR onto its center stand. Unlock the seat latch with the ignition key and remove the seat. Remove the clip screws from the top portion of both seat rail covers, positioned below the fuel tank and the seat, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the seat rail covers away from the motorcycle's frame.
     
   • 2 Remove both bolts from the front of the fuel tank, using a socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and prop it open using the support rod on the motorcycle's frame. Reach under the tank and unplug the fuel pump's wiring connector and all three hoses from the bottom of the tank. Take note of hoses' locations before removing them for reinstallation purposes. Pull the hairpin clip out from the support rod's base. Unscrew the pivot bolt from the base of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the fuel tank off of the motorcycle.
     
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   • 3 Unscrew the air box's mounting bolt from the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket. Loosen the clamps securing the air box's flanges to the carburetors' inlets, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the air box towards the rear of the motorcycle to separate its flanges from the carburetors.
     
   • 4 Loosen the clamps securing the carburetors to the motor's intake manifolds, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the carburetors off of the motor and out through the left side of the motorcycle's frame. The carburetors will still be attached to the motorcycle by its throttle and choke cables. Loosen the choke and throttle cables' lock nuts, using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the cables.
     
   • 5 Hold the carburetors over a large container. Unscrew the drain screws on the side of each carburetor's float bowl, positioned at the very bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. Allow the fuel trapped within the float bowl to drain completely, then tighten the drain screws.
     
   • 6 Flip the carburetor over, with the float bowls up, and place it on a clear work space. Unscrew the bolts from the float bowls, using a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the float bowls and their gaskets away from the carburetors.
     
   • 7 Unscrew the pilot jet from each carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. The pilot jet is placed to the left (with the carburetor facing you) of the main jet in the center of the carburetor. Screw a new pilot jet into place with a flat-head screwdriver.
     
   • 8 Reinstall the float bowls and their gaskets onto the carburetors. Tighten the float bowls' screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Reattach the throttle and clutch cables to the carburetors and tighten the cables' lock nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Slide the carburetors through the left side of the frame. Push the carburetors into the motor's intake manifolds. Tighten the intake manifolds' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver.
     
   • 9 Pull the air box against the carburetors and push the air box's flanges over the carburetors' inlets. Tighten the flanges' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw the air box's mounting bolt onto the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket.
     
   • 10 Lay the fuel tank onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert the tank's pivot bolt through the hinge at the base of the tank. Screw the pivot bolt's nut into place, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and reattach the tank support rod to the motorcycle's frame. Insert the hairpin clip into the support rod's base. Prop the tank up on the support rod. Plug the wiring connector into the fuel pump and reconnect all three hoses onto the bottom of the tank. Screw both mounting bolts onto the front of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket.
     
   • 11 Mount the seat rail covers onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert and tighten the covers' clip screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Lay the seat onto the seat rails, then press the rear of the seat down until the seat latch locks into place.
     

It sounds like it got tilted on its side. The air filter needs to be cleaned or replaced and the carburetor needs to be removed and cleaned.

When the tiller gets tipped over toward the air filter, oil will run out into the filter and the carburetor.

If the filter is foam you can clean it with gasoline, if its paper just buy a new one.

The carburetor is between the air filter box and the engine, it should come off with a few bolts, just remember where the springs hook up.

Open it up, take it apart and spray everything with carburetor cleaner from your local auto parts store. When you put it all together it will run like new!

The air cleaner is underneath the fuel tank, above the carburetors, in a housing that basically resembles a coffin. The housing is held to the carburetors by four flexible clamps at the bottom of the carburetor joints, and the housing halves are joined by ten phillips-head screws. Remove the fuel tank, loosen the flexible clamps, remove the housing from atop the carburetors, remove the screws from the top housing, split the housing halves; the air cleaner may now be removed and replaced. Reassemble in reverse order.

The rear spark plugs may be removed with a 3/8" socket wrench, a 3"-4" extension and a 12mm spark plug socket; the front spark plugs require removal of the motor mounts, do ONLY one side at a time with the same tools you used in the rear. take extreme caution to avoid getting dirt and debris into the cylinders while removing and replacing the spark plugs. The motor mounts require an 8mm allen wrench.