Starter just clicks when i try to start it

SOURCE: won't start

there is no sensor that controls the starter motor, i suspect the problem lies with the ignition switch, there will be a single thin wire going to the starter motor, this needs to have battery voltage at it when you crank the ignition switch if you do not have battery voltage there then check it as it comes out of the ignition switch, i hope this helps

SOURCE: the starter cylinoid just clicks

I remember having a simlar problem a while ago, my friend suggested i charged the battery, left it charging for a few days and it solved my problem. Be sure to put a little bit of water in to the battery before putting it on charge. I Would sggest on tryinganother battery as well!

SOURCE: Starter clicks but doesn't fire engine. Just put

Yes. the starter is malfunctioning at this time. it could also eb a ignition issue as well. here is a quick starter test procedure that will help you troubleshoot a bit.


Step 1 Check for 12 volts on the large wire attached to the top terminal on the starter relay. It should have battery voltage. If not, the battery, terminals or wire is bad.

Step 2 Check the small wire on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position. Remove the small wire on the solenoid and have a helper hold the key in the start position. Check the wire for battery voltage. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, replace the wire.

Step 3 Check the fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender well. If it is good, check the relay by pulling it out and checking for power at one terminal with the key off. If there is no power, the problem is in the fuse box between the fuse and the relay. If there is power, have the helper hold the key in the start position once again and check for power at another terminal from the ignition key. If there is power, the relay is bad. If there is no power, the starter circuit is suspect.

Step 4 Check to see if there is power to the neutral safety switch if there is no power at the relay. Use the voltmeter to check for power with the key in start. If there is power going in, check for power going out. If there is no power going in, the security system or ignition switch is suspect. If there is power going in and none coming out, the switch is bad. If there is power coming out, the problem is between the neutral switch and the relay.

Step 5 Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering column. Check the solid yellow wire for power when the key is in the start position. If there is no power, the ignition switch is bad.

SOURCE: i have 2003 cad cts mt new battery,new starter

does the vehicle have an anti theft device on it if so it may need to be reset. usually all you have to do is unlpug the negative batt cable. for about 5 mins.and reconnect it. if this does not solve the problem look i the owners manual to see how to override the system.

SOURCE: my 05 equinox will not

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
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