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the timing chain is adjusted by an oil pump chain tensioner and is to be renewed at each chain replacement. from this it is hydraulic adjustment and is automatic and does not require manual tensioning
The easiest way to set a timing chain or belt is to mark locations of timing gears before removal of old belt or chain. Install new belt or chain keeping gear locations the same. Tensioners shoud be adjusted with out upsetting gear locations. Gear locations can be marked with paint or scribed and etched on surface. If gear locations have been changed already, you must align cam shaft (s) position with main shaft position as far as current operation. Rotate main shaft to have cylinder # 1 piston to top of stroke. (exhaust position). Then rotate cam valves for cylinder # 1 to have exhaust valve open. Mark and maintain this position during belt or chain installation. You may still have to make minor valve adjustments after you start engine.
no, there is already a part that will tighten your timing chain we called it chain tensioner. if your chain is loose you better change no need to adjust. thanks!
Locate the bolts on the bar, down close to the engine. Loosen them. locate the chain tensioning adjustment, again, close to the engine, but on the other side. Loosen it also. Place your chain on the bar and on the sprocket. Tighten the bolts enough to take the slack out of the bar, but not so much that you cannot use the adjustment tensioning screw. Tighten up on the tension adjustment until the tension on the chain is right, and then tighten the bolts.
Best regards, --W/D-- Please feel free to rate this solution. Thanks
well without hearing it its difficult to say but a new timing chain adjuster will help ,if it is the timing chain then just a new adjuster will cure it but it could be the cam followers its difficult to point you in the right direction without hearing it myself then i could tell you exactly ,ask a local mechanic for his opinion first before you start playing with it though
Most timing chain replacements need to have the engine split. I HIGHLY recommend the factory service manual. Hayes and Clymer make them, but the factory one is the best.
Usually the loose rear wheel has enough motion to allow the chain to close up. You may have to back off the wheel position adjusters to get this to happen. Push the coupling link through the chain ends toward the wheel side and install the free link, then the clip so that the closed end is pointing in the direction of normal chain motion. Adjust the wheel to set chain tension so that the chain will move about 3/4 inch up and down. Balance the two adjusters so that the tire is centered between the swing arms. Tighten the axle securely, then tighten the chain adjusters firmly. Recheck for free play in chain as above. Make sure the clip is properly seated in both pin grooves.
To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases. You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm. Please let me know if you need further assistance. Regards, RSelvy
I'm very guilty of not adjusting my chain the entire time I've been riding - which is 2503 miles.
I was looking over my bike and the chain is hanging low on the top and rubbing in to the chain guard.
I don't have the time to get a replacement cotter pin to attempt adjusting it myself.
So I have four questions:
1) How much should it cost for a shop to adjust my chain?
2) How does this compare to replacing the chain and sprockets?
3) How hard is it to adjust the chain yourself? The most important thing to me is being able to keep the alignment appropriately through the whole procedure.
4) What is the highest reliability chain (longest endurance) for a bike that rides a lot of highway miles.
I described chain adjustment on my bike --http://totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?p=64704&highlight#64704,,
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