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When approaching roundabout or junction in second gear and slowing down pulling in clutch and bliping throttle a clunking noise comes from clutch cover as if not releasing quick enough,can you please advise.new clutch and springs have been fitted by dealer,but still doing it
dan69 i am not changing in to first,just blipping throttle with clutch in ready to pull away in second, was told by dealer that i had clutch drag or it was not releasing quick enough, on further investigation by dealer, told clutch was not disengaging quick enough. hence a new clutch was fitted under extended warranty,but the problem is still happening.any ideas thanks. stephen682dan69 i am not changing in to first,just blipping throttle with clutch in ready to pull away in second, was told by dealer that i had clutch drag or it was not releasing quick enough, on further investigation by dealer, told clutch was not disengaging quick enough. hence a new clutch was fitted under extended warranty,but the problem is still happening.any ideas thanks. stephen682
are you changing down into first? could just be the gearbox passing through neutralare you changing down into first?
could just be the gearbox passing through neutral
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Faults like this can rarely be solved in this manner as there are many things it could be, plus you need specialised diagnostic equipment. Take it to a renault repairer and get them to look at it.
There are times, such as approaching a roundabout, turning into a junction or coming down a hill when I have slowed down and then want to accelerate away again. When I put my foot on the accelerator, the car acts as though it has gone into neutral or that the clutch is slipping. I have tried watching the display to see what gear it is in when it does this, but can't see a pattern.
I have tried driving in ES mode but it made it worse.
Also, when in automatic mode, I sometimes get a bleeping noise at low speed but the manual says this happens in manual mode!
Has anyone else had these problems and found a way round them or do you think I should take the car back? I have done 2500 miles.
My first thought here is your drive shaft u joints, but only because I've been stranded more than once by these. The higher torque of second will definitely make a worn u-joint "clunk". with the window down listen carefully as you engage and release your clutch in 1st gear, if you here any "clunking" noise I would check your u-joints. To do this SAFELY;ie, using jack stand etc. get under your car and try to turn the drive shaft by hand with the car in gear. ANY play in the drive shaft is bad. I'm not sure if you meant you've changed your clutch and the pressure plate or you did change out you flywheel. either way whichever you did not change could definitely be warped.
If your engine is running with the clutch out and you pull in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear, you'll hear a clunk, this is normal. The reason is that although your transmission is a constant mesh transmission it is not a synchronized transmission. I don't know of any motorcycle that has synchronizers in the transmission. When the engine is idling in neutral with the clutch out, the gears and shafts in the transmission are spinning. When you pull the clutch in, wait a second or two for the spinning transmission components to slow down or stop spinning before you kick the transmission into low gear. The hotter the transmission is, the thinner the lubricant in it and the longer you need to wait.
A clunk is normal but if the bike trys to pull forward and you have to hold the front brake to keep the bike from moving or you cannot find neutral with the engine running, you need to adjust the clutch. To adjust the clutch, find the rubber bellows in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the bellows up and break the locknut loose. Shorten the cable as much as possible. Remove the derby cover from the left side of the primary cover. In the center of the clutch assembly, you'll see a clutch release rod adjustment. Break the locknut loose and adjust the center bolt inwards until a resistance is felt. Do not force the bolt, just until a resistance is felt. Back off on the bolt 1/2 to 1 full turn and lock the nut. Replace the derby cover and adjust the cable so that you've vote about an 1/8 inch of freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the lock nut and replace the bellows. Good Luck, Steve
Your bike has the TwinCam 88 motor which is rubber mounted to the bike. The slight ticking noise is coming from the tappets in the cylinder heads and is normal. When you are downshifting, are you going down in steps (5th to 4th then release the clutch and let it slow, then 4th to 3rd release the clutch and let it slow, etc.) or are you just running through them all at once (pressing down on the shifter without releasing the clutch until you are in 1st and then letting it out)?
There is some "clunking" that occurs in the tranny that is NORMAL but if the "clunk" is more pronounced, it could have something to do with the way you downshift...downshifting in steps as described above is the best way to downshift. If you can give me more info, please respond here so I can help you further.
i would start by cleaning out the throttle body. they collect soot and not have to be a lot either for it to mess up the idle speed, i had trhis on mine soon as i dipped the clutch to slow down the rpm dropped to about 400 to stall, i cleaned throttle body out ( taking air intake off and wipe round inside and the butterfly will be enough) and now it idles and the rpm dont drop below 900
Big Twins clunk too, especially into 1st with a cold motor, even if you free the clutch off first. When I remember, I snick it into gear, pull in the clutch and roll it back and forward to free off the plates. And it still clunks. Sometimes, you will slip from neutral into 1st, almost with no effort, and no clunk and so smooth you don't believe it's engaged (but it is). Weird.
I have smooth changes from 4th to 5th and back again, sometimes from 3rd to 4th, but 3rd to second and second to 1st are always a BIG clunk, even if you give it some stick to try and match the revs before changing down. I now go from second to neutral and then into 1st, which is not a lot of fun when you are negotiating a hairpin on Glenquaich at the time...
A tighter primary chain seems to reduce the clunk, and there are those who say that auto primary adjusters/tensioners (does a Sporty have one of them?) reduce the clunk. Some disagree...
Assume you find it's much better when it's hot..
dan69 i am not changing in to first,just blipping throttle with clutch in ready to pull away in second, was told by dealer that i had clutch drag or it was not releasing quick enough, on further investigation by dealer, told clutch was not disengaging quick enough. hence a new clutch was fitted under extended warranty,but the problem is still happening.any ideas thanks. stephen682
are you changing down into first?
could just be the gearbox passing through neutral
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