I am putting a new crank shaft in my 1978 GL1000 and looking into getting new conecting rod bearings i see there is diferant bearings for cylenders 1&3 and 2&4. And i don't know why. After i took mine apart i saw that one conecting rod bearing did not have a hole in it. I think there should be one there to feed oil to the rist pin. Im thinking it mite have come from cyl #4 but i am not shure.

could have problems with crank shaft bearings , should have had the crank ground and main bearings line bored , did you adjust the crank shaft thrust bearing for end play, after the crank shaft main bearings are torqued down you should be able to rotate it by hand .

what you are seeing are under sizes for bearings available for when the crankshaft is ground
you have to measure the journals with a micrometer to see it it is standard size or has been ground
or if you are just putting new bearings in during a quick engine rebuild then the bearing size will be stamped on the back of the shell
it will be either std or the .010" etc and you need the bearings with that size on them
anything else but std on a std crank journal will jam the shaft up--or .010" means that the crank has been ground .010" and needs bearings of that size
conversely if you put std shells on a .030" ground shaft , the bearings will flog out and oil pressure will be low to non existant

check that you kept the caps and rods as units as any one cap will not fit any other rod. The same goes for the main bearings. Have you got the correct size bearings for the crank shaft. Have you placed the rods in the cylinder correctly. have you placed the bearing slippers in the cap and rod correctly

did you use plasta gage and check to see if clearance is where it should be?

Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

it will crank but dout you will get it to idle why don't you just by a new internal cable for it they ar e cheep?

NO YOU CAN GO THROW OIL PAN BUT IF YOU HAVE A BAD KNOCK YOU MAY NEED THE CRANK TRUNED AND NEW CONECTING ROD YOU CANT JUST GO PUT BEARING IN IF YOU DONE DAMAGE TO BEARING

You're looking at well over $1000 to replace the crank bearings, rod bearings and cam shaft.