Looking for the rubber spacers for the 2 front Winkers.They have dried up & split.

will need to jack front end up,check the wheels turn side to side freely before removing wheels , visually check the steering system looking for splits etc to the rubber steering arm gaiters, the track rod end ball joints, where the steering coloum enters the car for damage etc to the rubber boot , hope this helps

Hopefully you don't have the wrong shank jammed in this because it can be a costly repair.
- Using a screwdriver, pull off the rubber dust cap #21 at the end of the nose & slide it out of your way.
- The shell #22 will also slide up out of your way
- Using a pick or small screwdriver, remove the snap ring #143 at the end of the nose & slide the 2 metal #144 & 1 rubber washer #31 out of your way
Slide the spacer tube #24 & stop sleeve #25 out of your way
Now you can access the 2 pawls #26 that hold the bit in place - you will have to assess what is jammed from here .
As I said, if you have a spline bit jammed in this SDS nose you may be looking at a whole new barrel because even if you extract the bit most of the time is does damage to the bit sleeve in the barrel.

the indicator unit under the steering wheel has a spring loaded section that hits a pin on the wheel so that when you turn back the pin hits the spring section and pulls the lever to the central position. You may have to remove the wheel and replace this section or switch.

Frame could be twisted from a previous wreck, the rubber isolators for the cab shell to frame could be dry rotting or in an area rusting out. Was it ever crashed- anti sway bar might reveal a twist)? Core support might be twisted. Other suspension components may be dry rotting or worn. Front tires may also be two different sizes overall.

New springs replaced pairs would be a better solution than spacers if evertything tracks back to spring height issues. You may also have some cracked leaves in the rear springs as well.

Have you checked the ride height and made those adjustments yet?

I have two vehicles that are 1993. When they get that old, rubber starts to dry rot. I have had the same problem on my 1993 Dodge Intrepid. My problem lies in the motor mounts and the transmission mounts. After replacing these items, it runs like a champ.

You can visually determine if you motor mounts are dry rotted. Look under the hood and, with a flashlight, look on either side of the motor. There should be a crossmember running parallel to the axles. On this crossmember will be two (one on either side) large rubber pieces sitting inside a metal holder. These are your motor mounts. If they are cracked and split, they need replacing. Also, if you can run your fingers across one and your fingers turn black, it is not oil... it's rubber powder.

Conclusion: If your motor mounts are dry and cracked, then so are your transmission mounts. You'll want to have them replaced by a professional. If installed by a novice or my a "Mom & Pop" garage, your new mounts may split under stress caused by improper installation... a headache you do not want.

Good Luck!

sounds like a wire has come lose on the back winkers...bet they dont flash as well!!....thats were i would look..for a lose wire..on the back winkers. could even be a earth!!!
hope this helps...Howard

front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:

slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs.
your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.

Check the rubber door seal, sounds like its split which is common after 2-3 years use.
You can find the general area of the leak by placing dry newspaper on a dry floor beneath the machine.

is it worth replacing them (does air suspension work)? From my experience no they don't really add much - you're better off performing a taper-roller steering head bearing conversion - this improves the handling much more. For details pester JFerg, as he made up a detailed recipe a few years ago. When deleting the rubber air-bags, you will need to keep the rim, as it acts as a spacer. But the stock dampers aren't that good - you'd be better off spending a bit of money and replacing them with BiTubo dampers. ,,,

Solution #2 posted on Jan 24, 2008
marklfixit
Rank: Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes

Replace the front bellow or front seal, as it may be called. It is an inner tube shaped rubber liner that seals between the front of the washer door and the front of the drum. The cost is about $35.00-$40.00 and you will need the kit as it includes the rubber spacers that are essential to doing the job. The job takes about 1 1/2 hours to complete. It is not hard, but it is dedious and requires some basic skills. Directions included in the kit are helpful.