A tube rubber like blew from what looks like the

Look to the exhaust manifold. A tube comes from it to the EGR valve.(close to the top). on that tube will two tubes coming off it, with rubber hoses. The hoses connect to the DPFE.

Between the engine and firewall. there is a metal tube that connects to the exhaust manifold and the EGR valve. EGR is close to the throttle body. On this tube you will see two other tubes coming off it, with rubber hoses attached. On the other end of the rubber hoses is the DPFE sensor. It has an electrical plug, wit two wires.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONSDescriptionNmLb-FtLb-InEngine Air Cleaner Tube Clamps1.6-2.2-14-19Engine Control Sensor Wiring Through Bolts2.5-3.5-23-30Generator to Bracket Bolt3727-Generator to Cylinder Head Bolt4835-Generator Brace to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts and Nut12-209-14-Intake Manifold Support to Throttle Body8-12-71-106Intake Manifold Support to RH Cylinder Head40-5530-40-Degas Tube to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts8-12-71-106Camshaft Sprocket to Camshaft Bolt50-7037-51-Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt10-88Coil and Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Connecting Rod Nut31-3923-28-Crankshaft Damper to Crankshaft Bolt125-16593-121-Crankshaft Pulley to Damper (4 Bolts)40-6030-44-Cylinder Head Retaining Bolt(1)(1)-Accelerator Cable Shield Bolts1.4-13Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Retaining Bolt2417-EGR Tube Connector to Exhaust Manifold40-4730-34-EGR Valve to Upper Intake Manifold Bolt20-3015-22-EGR Tube to EGR Valve and Exhaust Manifold35-6526-47-Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Stud20-2515-18-Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolt73-8754-64-Fuel Injection Supply Manifold to Intake Manifold8-12-71-106Throttle Cable Bracket1713-Dual Converter Y Pipe to Exhaust Manifolds34-4725-34-Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolts5-7-45-61Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt (5)(2)(2)-Main Bearing Cap Bolt75-8556-62-Oil Drain Plug11-169-11-Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block27-4020-29-Oil Filter to Oil Filter Adapter(3)(3)-Oil Galley and Cooling Jacket Plugs2014-Oil Level Indicator Tube to Exhaust Manifold Nut16-2012-14-Engine to Transaxle/Torque Converter Assembly Bolts40-6030-44-Torque Converter Nuts27-4620-33-Transmission Range Sensor Nut16-2212-16-Front Sub-Frame-to-Body Bolts77-10357-75-Oil Pressure Sensor16-2212-16-Oil Pump to Cylinder Block Bolt40-5530-40-Power Steering Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Valve Cover to Cylinder Head Bolts/Studs (5)10-14-89-123Right Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Retaining Bolts8-12-71-106Rocker Arm Seat to Cylinder Head Bolt(4)(4)-Water Outlet Connection to Intake Manifold Bolt10-14-89-123Upper Intake Manifold to Lower Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud20-3015-22-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 1-10)2518-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 11-15)10-88Water Pump Pulley to Hub (4 Bolts)20-3015-22-Water Pump to Front Cover Bolt8-12-71-106Wiring Retainer Bracket Nut20-3015-22-Valve Tappet Guide Plate to Cylinder Block10-14-89-123Ignition Coil Bracket40-5530-40-Oil Pan to Cylinder Block Bolt10-14-89-123Water Bypass Tube Nut20-3015-22-Crankshaft Pulley Bolts40-5530-40-

1. Tighten in four steps (refer to illustration in Cylinder Head Installation for tightening sequence):
   • Tighten in sequence to 70-90 Nm (52-66 Lb-Ft)
   • Then back off all bolts 360 degrees
   • Tighten in sequence to 45-55 Nm (34-40 Lb-Ft)
   • Tighten in sequence to 85-99 Nm (63-73 Lb-Ft)
2. Tighten in two steps
   • 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft)
   • 26-32 Nm (20-23 Lb-Ft)
3. Advance 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contacts sealing surface or tighten to 13-15 Nm (10-11 Lb-Ft).
4. Tighten in two steps:
   • 7-15 Nm (6-11 Lb-Ft)
   • 26-38 Nm (20-28 Lb-Ft)
5. Refer to illustration in the Cylinder Head Installation procedure for tightening sequence.

Do you have a check engine light??If not, look for a bad vacuum leak on the intake manifold. I do believe on this motor there is a long plastic tube that goes from the back left corner of the motor (if looking at it from the front) from the PCV valve to the front lower center of the intake manifold. There is a 45 degree rubber connector there for that plastic tube to connect to the intake manifold, check it for breaks or leaks, as with all the other vacuum lines and connectors.Fords are SUPER sensitive when it comes to intake manifold absolute pressure.

EGR tube from intake to exhaust manifold.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/flavio_517b938f50183b92

Exhaust Manifold - Removal & Installation3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Heat shields Lower splash shields Exhaust front pipes Secondary air tubes Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube Exhaust manifold
   

To install:



Fig. Right exhaust manifold torque sequence-3.0L engine



Fig. Left exhaust manifold torque sequence-3.0L engine

1. Install the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the fasteners in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
   2. Step 2: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
      
2. Install or connect the following:
   Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube Secondary air tubes Exhaust front pipes Lower splash shields Heat shields Negative battery cable
3. Start the engine and check for leaks.

continue...

Right-Hand
Removal

1. Remove spark plug heat shield (12A406).
   

1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
   
1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
   
1. If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
   
1. Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
   
1. Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
   

Left-Hand Removal






1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).

1. Remove spark plug heat shield.
   

1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
   

1. Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
   

1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
   

1. Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
   

1. Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
   

Installation

1. Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
   

1. Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
   
1. Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
   
1. Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
   
1. Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
   
1. Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
   
1. Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
   
1. Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
   
1. Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
   
2. Start engine (6007) and check for exhaust leaks.
   

Hope this helps you...WF †

http://www.focushacks.com/images/pcv.jpg
Here's a picture to locate it..
So, when looking at the engine from above, on the right of the exhaust.
Procedure to replace it
1) Lift and support the front end of your car, or drive up on ramps
2) Get under the front of your car. The PCV Valve is located behind the exhaust manifold, a few inches below the valve cover.
3) Push up on the PCV valve to pop it out of the tube, or pull. You can get it out of the rubber tube with some effort.
4) Remove the rubber elbow from the top of the PCV valve. This can be re-used if it's not squishy. It can also be replaced cheaply.
5) Put the elbow on the new PCV Valve
6) Re-attach the elbow to the PCV tube
7) Push the new PCV valve back down into the large rubber tube

If you look at the engine and see some tubes attatched to the exhaust manifolds ( these are called asperator tubes) follow the hose( usaualy a heavy duty rubber hose it will lead you to the pump. also you can see it from the front of the motor it is driven by the belt . ( cooling fan belt or the Harmonic ballancer belt ) .

"blew out" is a bit dramatic...If it's a pcv hose it should have a ton of suction at the open end or where it had been attached.Also with that hose detached, your engine won't run at idle very well or at all. Most often, any hose that becomes disconnected stays pretty close to where it's supposed to be attached. Simply look for a clean attachment nipple near where you found the hose and put it back there.