Drive Chain noise

There is a clutch behind the metal housing where the chain sprocket at the engine end attaches to the chain . There are wear parts with springs on them that have to be changed. ChainSaw Shed Chain Saw Parts for Wen Wagner Brand Chain Saws Chains Bars... You can get parts here.

To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Is it a softail????



To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Thanks for the inquiry!
From your information I can't tell if this is a off-road bike or a street bike. With the extended swing arm I'm suspecting off-road. In either case it's very much same issues. You have two issues and we will deal with them separately.
Chain catching sound:
In low gear when you have maximum torque applied to your rear sprocket & wheel many times the primary sprocket (smallest one under the engine side cover) will slip and actually jump teeth. You indicated this is the third season, so it's seen a lot of wear. It would also explain that when you adjust/ tighten the chain tensioner the noise is gone as the front sprocket is not slipping in the chain. If this happens a couple of times the front sprocket is ruined. Pull the front sprocket cover and inspect the teeth. The teeth will be smooth and ground away if this has occurred. Most off-road riders go through 1 - 2 sprocket and chain sets per season with the abrasion form the sand and mud if they are serious about their riding. Replace front sprocket or both sprockets & chain.
Other possibilities are that you have lost your chain guide or the plastic wear plates inside the chain guide are gone and the chain is banging against the metallic sides or your swing arm making the chain jumping sound you have described. Replace the guide or wear plates to solve this.
Whooping sound on front of bike while coasting: This familiar sound appears to be related to your front wheel. The best way to test this is to set your bike on a bench, crate, or test stand so the front wheel/tire is off the floor/ground and spin the wheel. Your rim may be bent allowing the tire to rub against the fork tubes or front fender making the whooping sound. The engine noise drown's it out under power but noise is audible when coasting with the clutch in and engine idling. The simple fix is a spoke tightening and adjustment to properly true the wheel. You will hear if its a bearing or something else being rubbed against by a wooble or something out of round (run out) causing the whooping sound.
I hope I've provided you useful assistance and that this information allows you to make an informed decision as to how to proceed from here. Please be sure to vote on my response. I hope I've earned a good rating from you today.
Please post a comment if you need additional assistance so that I can help you further.
Happy cycling,
TF

The primary chain is supposed to have 5/8 to 7/8 inch up and down play in the top run of the chain with the engine cold. I think it's 1/2 to 5/8 inch hot but I've never set the tension on a hot primary chain.

But, if you say you heard a crunching noise, then the engine started running rough and popping out the exhaust, I'd suspect something to do with the ignition timing. The ignition timing is controlled by the pulses from the crank position sensor on the right flywheel.

If I were you, I'd pull the primary cover, take the compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly off, pull the rotor and the stator of the alternator. Then pull the sprocket shaft seal out and take a look at the Timken bearing. While you've got everything off, take the plugs out and turn the engine over and feel for any roughness. It may be time for an engine overhaul. I've only seen Timken bearings fail in one Shovelhead engine but they do fail. Hopefully, you'll find something much simplier and less expensive than this wrong.

Good luck
Steve

I am assuming the kickback chain brake is not on. Push it forward to make sure. If the engine revs but the drive sprocket will not turn and the chain is adjusted correctly then the centrifugal clutch is bad or the spring is broken. You will have to take the clutch out to see exactly what has broken.

usually kawazaki zxr 400 has these problem the main reason is due to the overspeed.only authorised kawazaki dealer can solve it.....

Your rear sprocket is worn. As your put the pressure on the pedals the chain is riding over the teeth and makes a crunching sound. The teeth could appear slightly hooked. You will probably find this does not happen in a different gear. You need to replace both the cassette (rear sprocket assembly) and the chain together because the chain wears to match the sprocket and if you just replace one you will still get the slipping. The front chain ring also wears but at a much slower than the rear so check it as well. Also check the rear derailleur that it is tensioning the chain correctly and not damaged or if the bike is a single speed the rear wheel is positioned to give the correct chain tension.

No.That was the problem.The chain and the sprockets needed to be renewed.
When you will take, the rear sprocket's base, off the axle check it's bearing.Just put your finger in and turn it slowly to see if it "locks" instantly.It will be nice if you renew it now that you disassembling the chain drive system.

If your saw has a removable sprocket, Check the drive sprocket on the clutch drum. Either the the spline is worn or the drive link on the chain is not properly seated in the sprocket well.