Problem changing rear sprocket

Hi Charles
I'd be looking at the positioning of the rear axle. A small change in the angle could line up the sprockets.
If the rim is centred in the frame right next to the pedal sprocket, the sprockets should be in alignment. If they are not, I'd be thinking that the frame has been bent, and be trying to figure out where, and how to straighten it.
Odds are that one of the cycle shops would have a quick look and give some advice. Those guys are usually really great with helping keep riding enjoyable.

To replace the front sprocket follow the chain to the cover on the left side and remove it, loosen the chain tensioners on the rear axle, slide rear wheel all the way forward and remove chain. Then remove the bolt in the center of the front sprocket, change sprocket and reverse process for assembly. That is the process but if you are going to change the front sprocket you should change both sprockets and chain, as the chain stretches and will cause premature wear of the new sprockets. Complete sets can be found on Ebay for little money, maybe they are not the best but as long as you do not abuse them they will do until you get the money for a good set.

When your chain is worn the sprockets share the damage. If your chain was razor sharp or wearing unevenly: it's time to change : front sprocket (****** side) rear sprocket and use the proper size chain to match. They sell them in sets. It's quite possible only your chain may need to be changed . Inspect the sprockets! If you haven't done so, purchase a repair book for your bike and carry it with you. The information is found on page.... Good Luck, hope this helps!

If they are both 18 inch wheels then you should have no problem. To be sure contact your local dealer with the years of both bikes.

Hello, you will have quicker take off (bottom end) and lose top end speed, you will have the same effect if you increase the teeth on the back sprocket, if you want more top end speed do the opposite. You are changing your front sprocket from 15 teeth to 14 teeth which is going to turn the sprocket on the front quicker causing the rear wheel to go quicker, but because your engine is going to get to its maximum output quicker meaning you will lose a little on your top speed. Keep in mind if it is only your front sprocket being replaced (reduced in T) you may need to shorten your chain, it is recommended you replace front and rear sprockets along with your chain for maximum life on all 3 parts.

Perhaps you mean brake disc not sprocket..
no you will have problems mounting the brakes

You can add teeth to the front sprocket or take teeth off of the rear sprocket. In the case of your bike , I do not think there is a 17 tooth front available so your best option would be to shorten your chain and drop from the 44 tooth rear sprocket to 40 tooth or a 36 tooth rear sprocket. That would be like adding one or two teeth to the front sprocket. Your stock is 16/44 so decrease from there. Be sure to ID your chain, get a chain breaker, and a new master link.

Your sportster is actually pretty easy to change the front sprocket on. On the right side of the bike, you'll see the rear brake master cylinder. The master cylinder must come off as well as the plate that the master cylinder sits on. To get this off, you'll have ot remove the brake pedal and the exhaust system.

Once you get the plate off, you'll need some special tools to remove and replace the front sprocket. You'll need a special socket to remove the large nut holding the sprocket on and a special device made to hold the sprocket so you can get the nut off and then back on with the proper torque.

In addition to changing the front sprocket, you'll also have to change the final drive belt to match the size of the rear sprocket and front sprocket combination.

Good Luck
Steve

By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful. Al K

Usually, it seems that changing the front sprocket is more cost effective and easier to do. The front sprockets are about $10-$20 and rears are normally around $40-$50. Usually 1T gearing changes made to the front sprocket are the equivilant of a 3T-4T gearing change to the rear. I personally would go up on the front instead of down on the rear. Right now your gear ratio is 3.846 (meaning every 3.846 rotations of the front sprocket, the rear sprocket makes 1 rotation) If you go down 2T in the rear (13/48) your gear ratio would be 3.692 giving you a little less torque and a little more top end. If you go Up 1T in the front (14/50) your gear ratio would be 3.571. This would be about the equivilant of a 46.5T rear sprocket. (If they made it) The nice thing about doing the front sprocket first is the cost. If you decide it's too much difference and you want something in between, you can put the stock 13 back on and then change the rear (and you would only be out the $$ for the front sprocket) If you start with the rear and decide it's not enough then you change the front you're out the $$ for the rear.