Pages missing for removal of oil pump. how to tourque-cant get wrench in tight space.?many in. lbs.

again, no engine stated, and no country.
so ILL show my usa 2010,,, to you.
why not read the FSM book, posted here 200 times
its all there, to look and read
as is the graphics on jeep.com free. USA spec car..

page 4663, in fsm (search for the fsm page.)
here.
3.7L ) and bet yours is not bad.99%
but seen a mech, smash it in a hap-hazed filter change. (removing it varies with shop tools you have,)


now posted 201 times, wow.
http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service





or at jeep dot come, omg , it has real picture there , unlike many riceburner junk cars.
posted 500 times. what more can you need?

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?ukey_make=1064

easy, has no answers, ever.
easy for me, my kid but not my wife.
easy for skinny guy, (me) or not if fat, or too big.
we cant guess any of that, ever.

the key word in every book, is gain access to x
some folks bigger need, more things removed.
so, etc, etc, etc.

very carefully,its a plastic manifold,they only need about ten to fifteen lbs. tourque

the 2.3 and 3.1 engines need to drop oil pan.for the 3.3 engine you have to remove timing chain cover.you have to remove oil filter adapter the pressure regulator valve and the valve spring.then remove oil pump cover to oil pump screws remove cover remove oil pump gears.when installing another new oil pump lubricate the oil pump gears with clean engine oil pack the pump cavity with petroleum jelly.torque oil pan cover screws to 97 inch lbs which would be 11 ft lbs torque.oil filter adapter plate 24 ft lbs.

Yes 375 Nm is excessively high, see i measure in foot pounds so i looked up the conversion which is 276 foot lbs (a lot). I did some searching and the only numbers i found where 98 ft lbs which is 132 Nm which should not shear pulley bolts. The cars manual should have the torque specifications in it. Good luck

Oil Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 22R and 22R-E Engines

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Drain the oil from the engine. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump components on 22R and 22R-E engines
   
   
3. Remove the oil pan.
4. Remove the four bolts holding the oil strainer.
5. Remove the drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
7. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor and its bracket. Support the compressor out of the way with the hoses attached. Do not discharge the system or loosen the compressor lines. Fig. 2: Bolt location identification
   
   
8. Loosen the oil pump relief valve bolt.
9. Remove the five retaining bolts and remove the oil pump assembly with the O-ring.
10. Remove the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Slide the pump drive spline onto the crankshaft. Place a new O-ring in the groove.
12. Clean the threads of the upper retaining bolt of all grease, oil or debris. Clean all the bolts holes.
13. Apply sealant to the first 2 or 3 threads of the upper bolt. Install all the bolts. Tighten each to the correct tightness. Bolt (a): 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); bolts (b) 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and bolts (c) 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
14. Install and tighten the relief valve plug to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
15. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

3VZ-E Engine

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the engine under cover.
3. Remove the front differential.
4. Drain the oil.
5. Remove the timing belt.
6. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
7. Raise the engine slightly and remove the oil pan.
8. Remove the two bolts and nuts; remove the oil strainer and gasket.
9. Insert a drift between the cylinder block and the oil pan baffle plate, cut off the sealer and remove the baffle plate. NOTE: When removing the baffle plate with the drift, do not damage the baffle plate flange.
   
10. Remove the seven bolts, then the oil pump and O-ring. If the pump is difficult to remove, use a small plastic mallet to carefully tap the body of the oil pump. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Apply sealer to the oil pump mating surface, running the bead on the inside of the bolt holes. Position a new O-ring in the groove in the cylinder block and install the pump so that the spline teeth of the drive gear engage the large teeth on the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Fig. 3: Do not apply too much sealant on the pump surface, it can block the oil passage
    Fig. 4: Align the pump drive and the pump
    
    
12. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure. Tighten the oil strainer bolts to 61 inch lbs. (7 Nm).

common hand tools and a torque wrench

the tensioner is on the alternator there is usually a cover over it you need to loosen the 2 screws on the alternator and turn the "adjuster" screw till the belt is loose enough to come off note the whay it is run then install and tighten the new belt it must be very tight or it will slip

Hi,

Just to add to previous solution...

Assuming your head is straight & without defects, ensure you follow the correct tightening sequence diagram (see numbers) below:


Front of engine

i e
n 10 8 x
t h
a 4 6 a
k u
e 2 1 s
t
5 3
s s
i 7 9 i
d d
e e


1) Apply a small amount of engine oil to the thread section of the bolt and install so the chamfer of the washer faces upward.

2) In the proper tightening sequence (as shown above), torque bolts initially to 22 ft.lbs. (30Nm)

3) In the proper tightening sequence, now torque bolts to 45 ft.lbs. (61Nm)

4) In the proper tightening sequence, finally torque bolts to 68 ft.lbs. (92Nm)


Now you can Install the Camshaft sprocket and tighten it to 65 ft.lbs. (90Nm), while holding sprocket in place using the correct wrench.

Confirm proper timing mark alignment.

Cheers,

jam a screwdriver in the side and turn it loose. Otherwise use a rubber oil filter wrench/jar cap opener.
Never tighten more than hand tight when replacing with new one.

1. You fuel pump is located next to the gas tank.. Relieve the fuel system pressure and drain the fuel tank. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Support the fuel tank and loosen the strap bolts.
   
2. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank and disconnect the fuel pump's electrical connector.
   
3. 
   Access the fuel pump by lowering the fuel tank. Remove the locking ring on the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump.
   
4. 
   Install the new fuel pump using the items included in the kit and tighten the locking ring to 40 foot lbs with a torque wrench. You will also need a torque wrench to tighten the main straps on the fuel tank to 40 foot lbs. and the T strap to 250 inch lbs.