Iam trying to replace the drive belt on my standard fxr have removed primary cover undone the left handed threaded nut on the clutch but am unable to undo the compensating sprocket nut, the w/shop manual does not mention left hand thread so i am assuming it is right hand thread and if it is how do you undo it i have been leaning on bars but cant budge it, any ideas?????????????.....

Replacing the final drive belt is a bit of a job and I don't suggest it for the amateur mechanic. It does require some tools that the average person does not usually have in his toolbox. In order to replace the final drive belt, not only does one have to remove the entire primary drive including the clutch and the inner primary cover, but you must also remove the rear wheel and the swing arm. On your FXR, the transmission is mounted in rubber mounts that are supported by the same bolt as the swingarm. This means that you will have to support the frame and the engine seperately in order to get the swingarm out. You will have to retorque the engine sprocket to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds in the LEFT HANDED DIRECTION. If you have to remove the front belt pulley, you'll need a special socket to get the large nut off that holds it on and the threads on it are also LEFT HANDED. It torques back to at least 150 foot pounds as well. So, you'll need a "pulley locking tool" to hold this pulley while you torque it as well. I would suggest the purchase of a service manual as well since this is a moderately complicated job and sometimes "a picture is worth a thousand words".

Good Luck
Steve

To change the final drive belt on your Fatboy, first disconnect the battery. You have to drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose and remove the plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then, remove the starter jackshaft. Go the right side of the bike and remove the exhaust system so that you can remove the starter. Then take the inner primary cover off. You may have to remove the front belt drive pulley. Since you're in this far, you may as well remove the pulley if you have the proper tools and replace all the transmission seals behind it. Then, remove the rear wheel and the swingarm. Do not bend the new final drive belt into a radius any tighter than about four inches or you may damage the cords inside the belt. You will need a torque wrench that is capable of applying at least 150 foot pounds of torque to the engine sprocket nut and torqe 60-80 pounds in the LEFT HANDED DIRECTION for the clutch assembly. The front belt drive pulley torques to 150-165 foot pounds as is also LEFT HANDED THREADS and you'll need a "belt pulley locking device" to hold it while you take the large nut off and put it back on. If you plan on doing this job, I would advise the purchase of a service manual as sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

I assume you're talking about the front belt drive sprocket. First, disconnect the negative side of the battery. If you haven't already done so, you must drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Then you must take the engine compensator nut off and the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Remove the circlip and pull the clutch adjuster plate out of the center of the clutch. The mainshaft nut in the hole in the center of the clutch. The nut has LEFT-HANDED THREADS on it. Remove the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together. Then remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft in and remove it and the coupling. Remove the starter. Then, take the bolts out and remove the inner primary cover. Now, you can see the front belt drive sprocket. You must take the large nut off the sprocket. It too has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. You need a special deep socket and a sprocket locking tool to get the sprocket off and retorque the nut when you put it back on. This is a major job requiring a fair amount of disassembly of the bike. If you're going to change the belt, the rear wheel and swingarm must come out as well. I would high recommend that you purchase a service manual to help with this project.

Good Luck
Steve

yes, you can replace the belt yourself but it's quite a job. You must pull the primary, the engine sprocket and clutch assembly, the starter, the inner primary, the rear wheel, and the swing arm. You'll need an air wrench to remove the engine sprocket nut and the clutch nut unless you have a "locking bar" or something to wedge into the primary chain to lock the primary up so you can retorque the engine and clutch nuts properly. The engine nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and torques to 60-80 foot pounds. Put one line of Loctite Red #271 in each nut. As long as you don't have to pull the transmission belt pulley off, this is all you need. Most of the time, you can work the belt onto the pulley. If you can't, you'll need the special socket to loosen and tighten the large nut on the pulley and a "locking device" for it as well. The nut on the front pulley torques to at least 150 foot pounds as well and is LEFT HANDED threads as well.

Good Luck
Steve

I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

As far as I know, it comes off just like any other clutch. The changes that convert the bike into right hand drive are all in the transmission. Drain and remove the primary cover, remove the compensator nut, remove the plate held into the clutch pack by the snap ring, take the mainshaft nut off that holds the clutch on (NOTE: Left-Handed threads), take the primary chain adjuster off. Lift the compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch off as a unit.

Good Luck
Steve

On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.

Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.

Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.

From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.

Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.

Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.

As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.

Good luck
Steve

Isn't there a big nut in the middle of the clutch pack? Also I am not sure, it might be a left-handed one, check the threads first.

The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.

First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.

Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.

Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.

Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.

Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.

Remove the outer primary cover on left side. Don't forget to drain the oil first. Using a large pair of snap ring pliers, remove the clutch adjuster plate from center of clutch assembly. Remove compensator sprocket nut (very tight) and the clutch hub nut (left handed threads) and remove nut from bolt on primary chain adjuster. Grab the compensator sprocket and clutch assembly and lift out of inner primary.