wow no job stated.
04 (2.3L) ill take a wild guess and say, you might be fiddling the cam
and doing something there, new cam, new lifters, new chain, new head, ? what?
FSM means factory service manual, ever heard of one?
the FSM is just lousy 4 bucks why not read that first. and not mess it up.
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1004-2004-aerio-service-manual.aspx
you said SET, so i can only assume its all apart. right then
you want to Instal the chain and time it, right so here are the fsm steps
no photos. log in and read the FSM for that.
- Check that match mark on crankshaft timing sprocket is in match with timing mark on lower crankcase.
- Install crankshaft timing sprocket as shown in figure.
- Apply oil to bush of idler sprocket and install idler sprocket and sprocket shaft.
- Install first timing chain by aligning dark blue plate of first timing chain and match mark on idler sprocket.
- Bring yellow plate of first timing chain into match with match mark on crankshaft timing sprocket.
- Apply engine oil to sliding surface of timing chain tensioner and then install it as shown in figure. Tighten tensioner nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
- With latch of tensioner adjuster No.1 returned and plunger pushed back into body, insert stopper into latch and body. After inserting it, check to make sure that plunger will not come out.
- Install timing chain tensioner adjuster No.1. Tighten the timing chain tensioner adjuster No. 1 bolt to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
- Pull out stopper from adjuster No.1.
- Apply engine oil to sliding surface of timing chain guide No.1 and then install it. Tighten guide bolts to 6.5 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).
- Check that dark blue and yellow plates of first timing chain are in match with match marks on sprockets respectively.
- Install second timing chain as follows:
- Check that match mark on crank timing sprocket is in match with timing mark on lower crankcase.
- Check that arrow mark on idler sprocket faces upward.
- Check that knock pins of intake and exhaust camshafts are aligned with timing marks on cylinder head.
- Install second timing chain by aligning yellow plate of second timing chain and match marks on idler sprocket.
- Install sprockets to intake and exhaust camshafts by aligning dark blue plate of second timing chain, match marks on intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket respectively.
NOTE
As an arrow mark is provided on both sides, camshaft timing sprocket has no specific installation direction.
- Install intake and exhaust camshaft timing sprocket bolts. To install it, fit a spanner to hexagonal part at the center of camshaft to hold it stationary. Tighten the camshaft timing sprocket bolt to 57.5 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
- Push back plunger into tensioner body and hold it at the position by inserting stopper into body.
- Install timing chain tensioner adjuster No.2 with new gasket. Tighten the timing chain tensioner adjuster No. 2 bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and No. 2 nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
- Pull out stopper from timing chain tensioner adjuster No.2.
- Turn crankshaft two rotations clockwise then align timing mark on crankshaft and timing mark on cylinder block.
- Check that timing marks of cylinder head and cylinder block are in match with match marks on sprockets respectively.
- Apply oil to timing chains, tensioner, tensioner adjusters, sprockets, and guides.
- Install timing chain cover. Reverse removal sequence to install timing chain cover noting the following points:
- Apply sealant "A" and "B" to area as shown.
- "A": Sealant 99000-31250
- "B": Sealant 99000-31140
- Apply sealant amount to the following areas.
- "a": 0.12 inches (3mm)
- "b": 0.08 inches (2mm)
- "c": 0.24 inches (6mm)
- "d": 0.63 inches (16mm)
- "e": 0.55 inches (14mm)
- "f": 2.56 inches (65mm)
- "g": 2.87 inches (73mm)
- "h": 0.16 inches (4mm)
- Apply engine oil to oil seal lip, then install timing chain cover. Tighten bolts and nut to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
NOTE
Before installing timing chain cover, check that pin is securely fitted.
-
-
Before installing timing chain cover, check that pin is securely fitted.
- Install alternator belt idler pulley. Tighten nut to 30.5 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
- Install alternator belt tensioner. Tighten bolts to 18.5 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
- Install water pump pulley.
- Install A/C compressor bracket (if equipped). Tighten bracket bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
- Install cylinder head cover with new gaskets and seal washers and tighten nuts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
- Install oil pan.
- Install crankshaft pulley using pulley holder tool. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 108.5 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
- Install engine assembly.
- Install all remaining components in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
did that cover it, surely not.
but if you get the FSM and read it or log in , you will not miss the photos and the complex sealing bs on this motor.
I just received a repair manual for the bike in the mail yesterday and after looking at it I realized the chain runs up through the center of the head (4 cylinder) between number two and number three pistons. That means the chain would have to get by two connecting rods on the crankshaft to be in the correct position on the crank. That's if it was accessable to put the chain on behind the clutch basket.
I guess it is looking more like the crank will have to come out unless I tried romoveing a link pin in the chain like jeshern85 says but now that is kind of making me nervous a little since it may increase the odds of chain failure down the road.
Well here is an update to the 83 Suzuki 650 timing chain problem. After tearing the motor down I found than the short timing chain guide has worn through the aluminum head bracket it sits in making the job a bit more involved than I thought.
I had to split the two halves of the engine apart and take the rear half in to be welded. I found a guy that could do it for me for $30. Just got the half back yesterday and he did an excellent job! There are two small rubber inserts that hold the cross section on the chain guide down in the slot that I believe were left out on a previous rebuild. This I believe cause premature wear on the chain guide and failure of the guide slot it fits in.
So in hindsight, to simply put the new chain on would not have worked and if I did succeed at getting a timing chain on with out a complete inspection of why there was a failure, it would had been only a matter of a few miles before certain failure would have happened again.
Just thought I would pass this info on to someone who can use it.
I have a 1982 Kawasaki Z250 C. It has been sored for 6 months, the timing chain was not noisy before storage, but it is now. Will this fix itself if I run the engine until it get hot. I'm worried I may break the chain or it could come off the cog.
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