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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Hi, Marcdelve and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump.
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Hi, Larae always check the fuel flow origin first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing.
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn.
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working.
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. ISSUE engine not getting fuel Suzuki GSX Motorcycle Forums Gixxer com Fuel supply valve on Suzuki GSX750F Katana Suzuki 85 GSX R750 Service Repair Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals
The fuel line on the 141 is very small and wasn't really meant to be replaced for some reason, as it is a pinch fit. Buy the smallest fuel line you can, usually 1/8th OD inch fuel line. Remove the air-filter and the carburetor. You will need to drill out the current hole a little bit, so go slowly. As soon as the new fuel line will fit _tightly_ insert the line. You will have to remove the hand-bar and the anti-vibration bolts to separate the motor mount portion from the gas tank which is part of the hand grip.
Apply some gasoline proof gasket sealant to the space between the gap, else you will have a gas leak from the tank sooner or later.
Reassemble the grip and motor sections back together and let the sealant dry for a day or so. Put the carb and air filter back on and attach the fuel line to the carb and the other end to the fuel filter in the gas tank.
Carburetors are tricky, They have to be completely dismantled, soaked in carb cleaner, make sure all the gunk is off, every jet clean and clear, If you can't get a wire through it, you won't get gas through it, make sure you can blow through it, Get some guitar strings, .009 is about the smallest guitar string you will find, you can buy them separately at the music store if you don't have one. Change the filter in the line, when the carbs go back on, the adj all have to be the same, not one wide open and 2 idleing, Float level is also important, they don't sell complete kits anymore, you have to buy the parts individually, gaskets , etc, good luck.