Need the torque spec on the acorn nuts that fasten the top of the springer front end. They sit right behind the headlamp assy. The bike is a 2008 Harley Davidson Screaming Eagle Springer.
Re: Need the torque spec on the acorn nuts that fasten...
I have a slightly older springer, but they are probably the same. The shop manual says in reference to the acorn nuts on top of the spring restraints, "Tighten acorn nuts to 30-35 ft-lbs torque."
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Let's guess you have a Harley Davidson 1200 rather than a Yamaha 125 dirt bike
The front axle nut torque spec is considerably lower than the rear axle nut. The factory service manual lists the front axle torque spec as 70 to 75 foot pounds.Jun. 11, 2018
For a rebound adjustment, jack up your bike.
Be sure the front tire is off the ground.
Once this is done let your springer front end fall either to the left or right. Your springer front end should only bounce back about a inch and then stop.
Most people prefer the "Fall-Away" adjustment.
Jack the bike so the front end is off the ground.
Place a piece of tape along the front edge of the front fender.
Find the center balance point of the front end.
Place a pointer of some sort at the center of the fender. Make a mark on the tape for the center balance point. Mark does not have to be in the exact center of the fender.
With the pointer in place, turn front end in each direction and note where the front end just begins to fall away on it's own. Make a mark on the tape at these positions. Marks do not have to be centered and may be unequal distances from the center mark.
Measure the distance between the two outer marks. If the distance is 1-2 inches the fall away is correct. If less than 1", loosen the upper bearing retainer nut. If more than 2", tighten the upper bearing retainer nut.
This is a hub and bearing assy. You will need to remove the axle nut, brake rotor, caliper assy. There are 3 or 4 bolts that attach the hub assy to the knuckle assy. Most of the time, the hub assy will come out easy and sometime it comes out very hard. Make sure you torque the axle nut to the proper spec, so the bering will not fall apart and will last. Buy a quality hub and bearing assy, so you dont have to do it again.
There are two 10mm bolts on top side and another one at its back side. However, removing these bolts isn't enough. You also have to remove a 10mm bolt at the front grill (on top, next to the headlamp assy) so the bumper/grill bezel can be moved a little to the side to allow you clearance to remove the headlamp assy.
The vehicle will need to raised on the left (drivers) side and supported. Remove the tire, then the brake caliper assy. Remove the rotor, then remove the axle nut located in the center of the hub assy. Remove the hub/bearing retaining bolts, and then the hub assy. Some times it is corroded into the steering knuckle assy. and will not seem to come out. If this happens, install the axle nut, and wearing safety glasses, pound onto the hub flange from the inside to the outside, until it comes out of the knuckle assy. Then remove the hub assy. Clean the knuckle hole where the bearing with 120 grit sand paper, so the hub/bearing assy will go into the knuckle without damage. Torque the axle nut to specs. Clean the inside of the rotor, where the hub meets it, so it sits flat against the new hub. Install the rotor, caliper assy. Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft pounds. Road test about 5 miles and recheck the lug nuts.
×