Zx9r e1 . bike cut out on a run and is refusing to re start . no spark to coils , have checked pickup coil as per haynes manual and falls within ohms range, have also changed ic ignitor and still no change . whats next ?

heres a service manuhttps://www.motorcyclemanuals.info/motocycles-atvs/arctic-cat/al to down load ------------

cdi box bad

Are the plugs installed because without compression you will not get ignition/spark.

Are there any codes set???

Is the ignition fuse okay??? Is ECM fuse okay?

Of course first you need power to the coil which should be there whenever the ignition and run switches are on if so see below:


Are the plugs installed

Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test

With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to

R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results

A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.

If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

If you have spark, it sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad.

That sounds like a problem with the pickup coils. they are mounted to your timing plate, Check them for resistance with an ohm meter, they should be around 5k ohms, if one shows infinite you've found the problem.

the distributor has one or more internal pickup coils that signal the car's computer. Early versions had just one coil but later versions had three coils--two for spark timing and one for RPM. If one of the spark timing coils went bad, the car would still run fine on the other "backup" coil. If your distributor has just one coil, it is possible that this coil has started to show intermittent failures. You haven't noticed it yet but the computer has been keeping track. After a certain number it sets a code 13. Same for the multiple coil type only this time, one of the coils could be completely dead. The coils can be checked individually with an ohm meter to see if they have the proper resistance (125-275 ohms). You can do this by disconnecting the distributor wire bundle connector and probing the leads. I don't have a schematic for this but a Haynes manual will have it or maybe you can find it online.

There is no voltage specification listed in my manual but it does specify that the charge coil resistance test should be between 270 - 330 ohms and the pulse(pickup) coil should test from 171 - 209 ohms, figures listed are for coils around room temperature of 20 degress celcius

have your already check the high tension wire and the distributor cap maybe the contacts have corrosion in it. Try cleaning it with a sand paper of the contact point on the distributor if you have.

hi buddy to check the magneto just find the wires from the magneto and test them out with a volt metre if you have nothing there must be the stator plate gone get back to me buddy

I didn't notice the year of the bike but
the orange wire comes directly from your TCI ignitor unit.
It might be a faulty pickup coil or the ignitor unit itself.
the pickup coils are in the right engine case and
have about 110 ohms resistance.
If there is no ohms reading on the pickup coil then
it is faulty.
If the pickup pulse coils are good then your
main ignitor unit is probably faulty.
Sometimes the solder joints can crack in them.

FIRST thing to check is spark plug ,make sure it is sparking ,if it is and is wet change the plug .If plug is dry it could be the carb needs cleaning out if it has beesn stood for a while