2011 Road Glide Ultra CVO vibration on deceleration. Goes away when the clutch is pulled in Appears to be engine related as opposed to a flat spot on the tire. The bike has non spoke wheel @
SOURCE: adjust clutch cable
If you have a stock cable you need a 9/16 and a 1/2 in. wrench. about 1/2 way downn the cable there is a rubber boot. pull the rubber boot over the adjustment. Loosen the liock nut and adjust the cable so you have aprox 1/8 to 1/16 in. slack in the handle. Re tighten the lock nut and pull the rubber back over the adjustment.
SOURCE: replace handle bars
Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.
SOURCE: replace handle bars
Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.
SOURCE: Vibration on acceleration
when some vheel missing weight , the vibration begins at 40-45 mph, now if begins at any moment of acceleration ,check inner drive shafts , no outer joints
SOURCE: subaru vibration
I had similar problem with my '99 outback. Replaced the front half shafts and seemed much better. A few months later seemed to be comming back so replaced the driver side shaft again and the problem disappeared. I had put in rebuilt shafts and the driver side shaft was not rebuilt correctly.
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