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Re: With regard to balancing the carbs, where are the...
The vacuum pipe connections are indeed on the carb. inlet rubbers. Depending on which model you have you might need to disconnect vacuum pipes to the bikes equipment to install the gauges
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On a carb there are little rubber caps that fit over the points where you attach a carb balancer diagnotic tool. On my Kwak there are four of these attachment points. Three are capped and the fourth is capless and this is where the vacuum hose is attached. The fuel inlet hose is attached to the pipe that feeds the carbs.
Best bet is to google a forum for your particular bike as I can guarantee you are not the first with this question.
It probably broke off from a Tee fitting. Three hoses connect at one junction point. After it breaks off, you will only see two hoses that look like a single hose, but with a plastic connector holding them together. Also at that junction point, you will have a hole in the plastic connector, where the hose that came off the carb belongs. This broken Tee fitting creates a vacuum leak. Purchase a new Tee fitting, disconnect the old part, then install the new one.
Best suggestion is to get a Haynes repair manual that covers your car. There are vacuum diagrams in these books that should points you in the right direction. Given that it idles in a rather manic/depressive manner, I'd look to the carb/TBI/Fuel injector system for a vacuum nipple.
Clean your carbs! Your floats might be sticking open a bit. Plus, all Kawasakis have a simple spring-actuated check valve in the fuel valve. This way, you can disconnect the fuel line without having to block the flow. Fuel could be leaking through the check valve. Your problem most liklely identifies dirty gasoline. Clean out your tank, your carbs, and change your fuel filter.
The carbs have been balanced but not synchronized? Each of the four carb slides needs to begin to open at the exact same time. Being out of sync can cause your problem. The balance and sync on a four cylinder bike is best done in the shop. If you try it yourself have a fire extinguisher handy. < < I am serious here.
Since the carbs have been cleaned and 'adjusted', I will take the liberty to note the air screw and the idle screw factory settings and how to set them. On each carb, GENTLY turn both screws inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw outward one and one half turns. Now you are back to the stock settings.
If your bike has CDI ignition, the timing is preset and is not adjustable.
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