Having problems with my 2015 zx10r clutch the cable keeps getting tighter I've adjusted both lever And engin to the point where it won't slack anymore and still getting tighter now it's starting to slip when I give it power any help would be extremely grateful

Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..


. How to Adjust Clutch



Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me..
Suzuki RM80 250 89 95

The cable may not be broken but it still may need adjusting or replacing. Obviously not a hydraulic problem as you say cable.
Are you able to put it in gear when the engine is off? If you cannot find a gear and find neutral again without the engine running, just by rocking it backwards and forwards, then it may be the gear selector that is the problem (or the gearbox itself) and not the clutch.
Does the clutch lever feel tighter or looser than normal? Tighter could mean a problem with the clutch push rod or method of actuation and looser could mean the cable is fully stretched for that position so adjust or replace it.

Hi Darren:
Have you a lot of slack in the lever before the clutch starts to compress? If so, you should be able to use the adjustment where the cable attaches to the lever. Back it off so there is less slack, thereby getting more compression of the clutch. If the clutch drags and the shift into gear is really harsh, it may be an idea to have it checked for worn clutch plates.

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

Possibly, first remove clutch cable or drain hydraulic system I do not know what clutch activating system you have.
For cable system after removing cable bend in a loop with about 6" of each end crossing. grip lightly between thumb and finger of one hand. See if the inner cable can be easily moved use only light pressure. If it doesn't move easily try getting as much oil down the cable as possible. Repeat looping and testing and lubing until inner cable moves freely. Replace on bike make sure you adjust correctly and have enough free play also grease the lever fixing point and grease the adjuster. If this fails you need a new cable, make sure you lube it well before fitting.

For Hydraulic system make sure the lever is working properly and put a small amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder make sure the fluid moves when the lever is squeezed. Check the clutch end of the mechanism for leaks and wear. Refill master cylinder and bleed the system you need to grease the lever pivot. If this fails I am afraid its dealer/workshop/service center time.

You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

The clutch is not releasing properly. You need to adjust the clutch. To do this, follow the clutch cable down until you find the clutch cable adjuster. It's usually covered by a rubber bellows cover to protect it. Slide the cover up or down exposing the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel inwards getting as much slack in the cable as you can. Then stand the bike up fairly straight by putting a block under the kick stand. Make sure the bike is stable and won't fall over. Remove the derby cover. In the center of the clutch assembly you'll see an adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the center screw inwards just until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw. If you do so, you'll damage your inner clutch hub. If necessary back the screw out and back in until you feel the resistance several times until you get the "feel" for what you're doing. Once you get to the point of resistance, turn the screw back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down. Replace the derby cover. Now, go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjust barrel out until you have about 1/8 inch of free play at the pivot point of the lever. Squeeze the lever a few times and recheck the free play. Lock the lock nut and replace the protective cover. This should solve the problem.

Good Luck
Steve

Sounds like the friction material bonded on the friction plate are coming off, time to do a clutch job.

Your owners manual has the exact procedure listed in it-but here goes- you need to know how much play is at the lever on the handlebar. If it is excessive then the cable must be tightened up. The way you take out excessive play is to loosen the big round thing (the adjuster stop) and turn the smaller round thing (the adjuster) toward the front fender. If after you have adjusted the adjuster and retightened the stop you still have too much play at the lever, then you must adjust the cable down onthe lower right side engine case. You do that by turning the cable adjuster (at the lever) all the way back in toward the lever, you wan the full amount of play that there can be, so you take out the correct amount of slack down below. After turning the cable adjuster all the way in, next take your wrenches and go to the right side of the bike and look for the clutch cable coming down and across the lower outter engine case. It will be a big black cable having 2 "nuts" and runs thru a piece of metal on the top of the outter engine case. first loosen the stop nut, then tighten the adjuster nut in toward the back of the bike, keeping an eye on the lever at the handlebar. When you see the slack taken up, stop. Test the lever for suitable play (about 1/4" total at the lever ball end). When you have achieved the suitable amount of play, tighten the stopper nut and retest the handlebar lever. You make major changes down at engine level, you make minor adjustments using your cable adjusters at the lever.