Took apart for cleaning. May have installed the float incorrectly. Which way should it go?
If you take it apart again, look at the tab between the two float chambers. You should see a shiny spot that the needle valve rubs against. I should add that you cannot fit the float upside down, as it just simply wont fit without brute force! I think the problem is, is that you have lost or forgot to put the needle valve back in. Take off the carb. Turn it upside down. Undo the four screws holding the float chamber on to the main body. Take out the pin that the float pivots on and holds it in place. You should see a brass nut with a hole in the middle. In the middle of this nut you should also see a small plunger with a little spring loaded damper on it. The other end has a cone, or pointed end, this is your needle valve. If all you see is a brass nut with a hole and nothing else, then you have lost the valve. This means there is nothing to stop the flow of fuel once the float chamber is full, and so cause it to flow out of the over flow tube.
SOURCE: Cleaning carbs on Suzuki GS650 L, what is the float setting?
to check the float height, invert the carb body holding the float arm pin so the pin will not slip off. With the float arm kept free, measure the height it should be 22.4 + or - 1.0mm
This is what the shop manual says.
basically what that means turn the float bowl upside down and keep the bottom of the float even with the edge of the bowl.
SOURCE: Float spring on tecumseh Carb.
Ok, that pin is the needle valve. It should move freely, and the spring should attach it to the float. When the carburetor bowl is full, the float pushes that pin up to shut off the gas flowing into it. Otherwise, it would continue to dump fuel into it until it overflows, and you would have gas all over. The engine draws gas through the jet in the bottom of sump that you see sticking into the bottom of the bowl(this likes to get plugged up and keep your engine from running) The spring just kind of sits in there so that if the float moves, it will pull down the pin as it moves.
SOURCE: 5500 watt generator won't start.
With starting fluid, it runs, so this means spark and compression and valves closing properly. You mention gas flow, so gasolene is getting to the carb. This would then leave the problem being in the carb if indeed fuel is present at the carb. If you take apart the carb right now, is there fuel in the bowel? Or, remove the bottom screw on the carb, does gas flow out? Does it flow continuously or does it quit? This will indicate if the float valve is indeed opening. The only thing if you have fuel in the bowel and no start, even with the choke closed, is that the main jet must be plugged. Had the unit been sitting for quite a while with gasolene in it? Gas can "varnish" after a few months and this can cause plugging of the jets and other passages. How old is the gas in the unit? Old gas won't burn in the engine and this can also be a problem. Drain the tank, and carb, put some new gas in the unit and try it. You might have to take the carb apart again and use some carb cleaner to blow the **** out of all the carb passages. This should get it going again. Now, most important, when you get it running again, you need to adjust the engine speed so that you do not burn out any electrical equipment. If you have access to a frequency meter, plug it into the 120 volt outlet on the generator and adjust the speed so that the frequency with no load is 62 - 63 hz. This will allow the generator to drop to 60 hz under load. The adjustment is a 5/16 nut, right side of the upper engine, facing you.
SOURCE: we have a 6.25 /Briggs & Straton we have cleaned
You should have two fuel lines going from the carb to the tank, one has a filter,
make sure both lines are good without any breaks or cracks. if the filter is dirty
you may need to replace it. you can fish it out of the gas tank by making a hook
on a wired coat hanger, try to remove the filter and put the line back in the tank
make sure they are both submerged, if it runs just replace the filter, good luck!
SOURCE: I have a 1986 suzuki
Yea these carbs can be a real pain sometimes to get right. First thing you need to do is varify the float seat is working and totally stopping all fuel flow.... and all the jets, main, pilot and choke circuit are absolutely clean. Bench test the float needle valve by connecting a hose to the carb fuel line nipple and letting gas gravity feed as it would in a run position. if it tests ok, remount it on the bike...
i'm guessing you have a vacuum petcock on this year model? If you do, it needs to be inspected.
In the "on" position you should have no gas flow coming through the petcock, In the "prime" position it free flows. If there is a hole in the diaphram the engine will **** gas and not air (vacuum) through the hose and it will flood. If you don't have a vacuum line on your petcock then it is a different kind. Be sure to check your crankcase, it could be way past full with gas that has entered, dont start your engine like that...drain it all out. make sure the air filter is dry. You will have to replace the spark plugs...a gas soaked plug won't fire.
Good luck, i hope this helps.
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