My 2015 HD Street Glide seems as the clutch is not disengaging all the way. Is this just air in the system or is y clutch plates worn? only have 21,000 miles on it. @
SOURCE: Clutch pedal won't disengage clutch
make sure fluid is full... then pump the pedal with it NOT RUNNING as many times really fast as you can.. try it after that, if it works then you need either a clutch MASTER cyliner and/or a SLAVE cylinder.. MOST likely being the slave cylinder. if the pumping action doesnt cause it to disengage then you have a burnt out clutch. The system is hydralic and takes regular DOT3 brake fluid in the small resevoir under the hood next to the brake master cylinder...
The slave cylinder being bad would mean you have to removed the transmission and install a new slave cylinder... thats the most common issue with those around that mileage...
SOURCE: 2006 dyna wide glide primary noise
sounds like the chain is way to tight readjust clutch and tensioner and check for noise. you may even wanna run a charge test to see if you have stator problems or a loose compensator nut
SOURCE: my clutch in my rm 250 wont disengage i know the
If you put synthetic oil or an oil with "Special" additives in the gearbox the cork on the fiber friction plates may be swollen. The swelling can cause the clutch to stay engaged, Only use standard 10w40 motor oil in the gearbox. You will need new fiber friction plates if that is what has happened. Normally the only other three things that would cause the problem are a worn shift arm, a bent push rod and a badly worn cable.
SOURCE: the clutch pedal assembly is slipping on the shaft
Try drilling through it and inserting a small bolt or roll pin.
Or go to a salvage yard.
Remember GM also sells the same vehicle as the Geo Tracker.
You could also take the shaft and pedal in to be welded, but that may be undesirable.
But I would not try epoxy because of the potential danger.
SOURCE: 2009 street glide when I let the clutch in first
If your engine is running with the clutch out and you pull in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear, you'll hear a clunk, this is normal. The reason is that although your transmission is a constant mesh transmission it is not a synchronized transmission. I don't know of any motorcycle that has synchronizers in the transmission. When the engine is idling in neutral with the clutch out, the gears and shafts in the transmission are spinning. When you pull the clutch in, wait a second or two for the spinning transmission components to slow down or stop spinning before you kick the transmission into low gear. The hotter the transmission is, the thinner the lubricant in it and the longer you need to wait.
A clunk is normal but if the bike trys to pull forward and you have to hold the front brake to keep the bike from moving or you cannot find neutral with the engine running, you need to adjust the clutch. To adjust the clutch, find the rubber bellows in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the bellows up and break the locknut loose. Shorten the cable as much as possible. Remove the derby cover from the left side of the primary cover. In the center of the clutch assembly, you'll see a clutch release rod adjustment. Break the locknut loose and adjust the center bolt inwards until a resistance is felt. Do not force the bolt, just until a resistance is felt. Back off on the bolt 1/2 to 1 full turn and lock the nut. Replace the derby cover and adjust the cable so that you've vote about an 1/8 inch of freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the lock nut and replace the bellows. Good Luck, Steve
511 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×