Tuf4d1 wont light

SOURCE: red light fashes 6 times

Six blinks=no horizontal (H STOP), no raster, goes to the blinking self diagnosis function immediately. check the horizontal circuits, not sure what the repair will cost you.

you can try this to reset the tv to manufacturer defaults, but there is no guarantee it will clear the problem. to do this, with the tv in standby, quickly press "display", channel "5", volume "+", then power. once the service menu is up, press 8 and then enter, and lastly the power button.

this should reset to factory defaults. once again, no guarantee this will help, but the no horizontal (h-stop) diagnosis should give you something to ask the repair techs about over the phone to get a rough estimate of repair cost.

SOURCE: front light will not work

Before you go any farther stop. Unplug the refrigerator for the wall receptacle then look into the light socket (use a mirror if necessary), now see that contact point in the bottom of the socket? Raise that contact point to where it will ouch the bulb when you screw it back in. Now screw in the bulb plug in the refrigerator and open the door. Did I do OK ?
supertechks

SOURCE: Delonghi AC930AMQ Microwave, Interior Light Bulb

Managed to figure out what the problem was ,I was a bit heavy handed with the solder/flux which caused a short cleaned up the area around the solder joints and now working great

SOURCE: High beam headlights quit working. Bulbs are OK.

When you checked the bulb plug and got 12 volts, did you meter ground some where else on the car? If so, you might check ground also at the plug.

SOURCE: After leaving the last gas

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "