What do i do when my brother switched the battery terminals and i need a new battery he went from top to side and Its so mush more money to pay out on a 05 ford.free star

Possibly damage to the item that produced magic smoke.
Call an autoelectrician and be prepared to pay a lot of money for a silly mistake.

If all you are doing is changing to a side post battery, just connect all the positive cables from the old pos post to the new pos holder and all the neg ones to the new neg holder. If you've already cut them all off and not sure where each wire goes, all the reds are positive, all the blacks are neg. To make sure use your continuity meter to test. Connect one meter lead to any good clean metal part on the car and test between each black wire in turn, the neg ones will show a circuit, the pos ones will not.

the b side of the relay is battery side the s side is starter side.

My brother-in-law left the cap on the left side of battery terminal and that is why we were getting no power! Yes a dumba** moment!

You can cut off the end and replace it. The right ways is to replace cable. the first salution will get you by but will corroud after a while.

If this is a screw type or a top terminal, if its a screw side type cut the top of the bolt with a hack saw blade, if it is a top type get a terminal puller.

I am posting a generic reply to the "charge fail" lamp (that is the correct term - when the lamp is lit = the battery is NOT being charged) problems rather than a specific cure for the ills in your car.

I suspect a faulty alternator OR an inadvertent short to battery - potential of the wire leading from the charge fail lamp to the battery charging alternator. Please try the following tests (BE CAREFUL while working - you are working near the engine + v belts + fans etc. and a fully charged battery = can be very dangerous)

Locate the three terminals of the battery charging alternator. The largest terminal would be connected to the battery positive cable (may be red in colour). The second terminal could be labeled as "W" = this is the terminal generating a frequency proportional to the engine speed for the tachometer. The third terminal is the WL or D terminal. The Charge Fail lamp is connected from battery positive (via the ignition switch) to this WL/D terminal.

Turn the ignition switch on but don't start the engine. Observe the "Charge Fail" lamp glowing in the dashboard. Now remove the wire going to the WL/D terminal. The "Charge Fail" lamp should now stop glowing. If the lamp continues to glow, there is surely a shortcircuit between the wire from the lamp to the alternator.

As this lamp current is not going to the WL/D terminal due to the short circuit, the battery charging alternator is not producing very little or no output. Check if the battery terminal voltage rises when the engine is running. If the alternator is working correctly, the battery would be at 13.2 Volts with the engine running.

The confirmatory test is to rig a spare lamp (12V, 3 or 5 watt lamp in a holder) between battery + to the WL/D terminal - if that works properly (lit when the engine is stopped and off when the engine ir running), you can connect a new wire from the lamp to the WL/D terminal - do isolate the earlier wire completely from from lamp as well as alternator end.
Hope this helps. Write back if I have confused you further.....

Apurva from Pune, India.

You've cleaned & checked & tightened all your battery connections good, and looked for thinning wires at battery terminal ends? Check all the grounds (-) at other end of battery terminals, and make sure they are clean & tight. What voltage do you read at battery when engine running, and not running? Next time you have to boost it to start, try just connecting the (-) negative & see if it starts, if it does you have a bad ground connection somewhere.

Sound like you have it covered

One word: RIDICULOUS. My Centro randomly Hot Synced one night, and never worked again. I went to a Sprint tech 5 times, literally. I had the insurance coverage and they order me a new phone. When I picked up my new phone, the tech turned it on in front of me. I go home, charge it up and NOTHING. Went back down to Sprint tech. Sprint does not cover the battery of the phone, and they gave me my OLD battery with my new phone. The phone worked with the tech's battery though (?). They gave me a new battery, go home charge and...nothing happens again. Went back, they checked my charger, and everything looked fine, except they had no clue what was happening. I still have the phone that I can't sell because it has all my info in it.

In the end, I went to Verizon, and ate the $200 termination fee. I called Sprint and said fix my phone or eat the termination fee, and they gladly waived the term fee!! TRUE STORY. The grass is greener at Verizon. They help you save money on your plans, seriously! You may think this sounds like a Verizon commercial, but after 6 years with Sprint, I wish I made the move earlier, much earlier. Search the internet for loopholes on how to cancel your contract without paying! Good luck!!