Don’t run at full speed cuts out I have replaced fuel pump and carburetor in the coil so far

I would guess fuel problem.

I can't tell from the Internet if your suburban is injected or has a carburetor. If it has a carburetor, the bowl is too full and overflows on turns etc. Replace it with a rebuilt one. If injected, look for a fault shutting off the injectors.

Good luck. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

check all safety switches,seat,deck,clutch,etc,pull single wire off from coil,run the motor,if it doesnt stop then the safety switches are bad,i disconnected my wire from my coil and put a wire on with a switch and ground the switch,to shut it off,but,beware your safety devices are gone,be careful.send me your old coil,i could use it.

Tracking down fuel problems.

1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling
2. Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric.
3. This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (look at the filter before removing it, it should look at least 1/2 full of fuel.) If gas does not pour out remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank.
   
   Do your self a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area. After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, put on a FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor
4. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs (and others) are almost identical. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...
5. Note: My engine was starting hard and dying in the field this year (March 2015). While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
6. Many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on. If it does not click you will have to replace it or track down an electrical problem.
7. If this has not solved the problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and save the hassle of a complete carb removal.

NOTE: Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.

If you find this fuel checkup does not solve the problem, repost your question with updated info and I will walk you through the next step. Tracking down a spark problem; yes, your problem could involve the coil. (Not as likely as fuel)
Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...

If it is a carburated engine it should have a mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine, if this is the case it will only pump gas when the engine is cranking or running. Disconnect fuel line at carb, crank engine and see if it pumps gas out of line, if not check filter and lines from carb to tank for stoppage or bending but more than likely you will have to change fuel pump.

Could be starving for fuel or could be the coil. Is it fuel injected or carburetor ? Now when it cuts out this is the important part. When it cuts out is it a jerky quick cut out or a much smoother and longer cut out. The quicker one represents the coil and the longer one would be fuel. If it has a carburetor then check the fuel line. Is it old and stiff or shows crack lines? Check the fuel filter. if it is fuel injected then the fuel pump could be at fault. You know there are also other things to check. The spark plugs can cause it to cut out under a load. The spark plugs should be the proper ones for this bike. Each plug has a rating and you have heard of being a hotter plug? This just means more or less spark power at the gap. Too much is not as good as too little. But it should be enough to ignite the gas. You can remove the plug and inspect for cleanliness and color. a brownish color is best. White is not good and means it is too lean. Black and it means it is not burning correctly and oily. When you have the plug out ground the threads to the engine and turn your bike over. What does the spark look like? Dark blue is good. Red is ok, light red with a yellowish tint is getting weak and will not be enough to fire the gas at a higher speed. what happens is the faster the speed of the bike the quicker the spark has to develop. If it is a lighter color and it has to fire quickly, the spark would have almost diminished to nothing, but on the other hand if it is dark blue if it has to fire quickly there is still enough uumph to do the job. You see the amount of spark is also determined by the frequency the coil on and off. Well hope this helps you to determine if it is gas or spark problem. If spark its the spark plug,coil or spark plug cable. I have seen the cable where it contacts the spark plug be a problem.
If it is fuel , fuel filter, fuel line,fuel pump, injectors and possibly which I have overlooked, could be other electrical items such as throttle sensor, cam sensor. Not sure what bike you have but this should cover most all of it.

That is the fuel pump. It feeds the fuel into the carburetor. I would take off the fuel bowl and see if there is any water in it. (1/2 in socket will work) Also you can take the line that goes to the carburetor off at the fuel pump and turn the engine over a couple of times and see if the fuel pump is working correctly. (shooting fuel out as the engine turns over) If the fuel pump is working ok, then I would suggest that the problem is with the carburetor.
If you find water in the fuel bowl, then there is most likely water in your fuel tank as well. Wal-Mart sells HEET, which will help to remove and burn the water from the fuel system. It may pop and sputter as the water goes into the engine. But keep fresh fuel handy and you can run the engine close you your house at full throttle and choke the engine if it starts to die, and run it until the fuel tank is dry. Then you can add the fresh fuel into the fuel tank ( I would add some more HEET to the fuel to help remove all of the water). Your engine should run like normal again.
IF you do not have any water in the fuel bowl and you have a couple of wires running to the bottom of the carburetor, then it could be the fuel solenoid is acting up and needs to be replaced.
If that is the case you will need the MODEL, TYPE, and CODE off of the OHV cover. It is stamped into the metal.
I hope this helps to answer your question.

Have you checked it for spark when it dies? It sounds like a bad ignition module.

Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. This should get the engine running if it will. If it does not, check the lower diaphragm on the carburetor for hardness or cracking. You appear to be running on prime only--the carburetor doesn't seem to be pumping in fresh fuel. You may need to do a carburetor clean and re-kit. Check the fuel line condition and the fuel filter in the tank for plugging. Make sure the muffler and air cleaner are not plugged. Once you get the engine to continue running, warm the engine up. Open the throttle and adjust the H needle CW--the engine should start to speed up, but still 4-stroking. The proper setting is 4-stroking, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW so that the engine runs fairly smoothly, yet will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Set idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!

Remove the fuel line (check condition) from the carburetor body, tip the engine up so that the fuel tank is a little higher than the fuel line end--fuel should run out. Does this unit have a primer button? If so, inspect for holes or cracks in the clear button and the condition of the two hoses attached to it. Remove the carburetor from the engine and inspect for a hard or cracked diaphragm and pumper valves (disassemble the carburetor). Clean with spray carburetor cleaner and re-kit it if you found bad parts. Install the H and L mixture screws to CW stops (lightly) and back out to 1-1/2 turns each. This should allow the engine to run. Warm up the engine, pull the throttle full on, and adjust the H screw until the engine just starts running at high speed with cutting line deployed at full operating length. Drop back to idle and adjust L for smooth idle, but still allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed high enough to keep it running.

Remove the spark plug and look at the inside porcelain--if it is wet with fuel, put the wire back on, lay the base of the plug on engine metal, and pull the starter through while watching for spark. If no spark, try another plug. If still no spark, then something is wrong with the ignition system. Gain access to the ignition coil. Remove the small wire that connects to the coil and try the starter again. If now sparks, the stop switch is probably defective. If still no spark, replace the ignition module. Use card stock to set the clearance between the module poles and the flywheel magnets. Try the starter again--you should have spark by now. Put everything back together and try to start the engine.
If the plug was not wet in the first check and it does spark, then you have fuel problems. Make sure you have fresh fuel in the tank. Check the condition of the fuel line from tank to carburetor. Remove the carburetor and disassemble. If the rubber diaphragm is stiff and cracked, re-kit the carburetor. While it is apart, use spray carburetor cleaner and wash out everything that is metal--don't wash anything rubber or plastic. Blow out all passages with compressed air. Turn both jet screws (H and L) in CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. This should get the saw running. Start with H needle (after engine warms up)--open throttle full speed and turn needle CW until highest speed is reached, but 4-stroking. Engine should immediately smooth out when cutting lightly. Next, run at idle and adjust L needle for smooth idle, but rich enough to allow engine to follow the throttle without gasping. Set idle speed low enough that the chain stops turning.
Hope this gets you running.