Need to know it there is a torque speck for the 5 bolts that hold the belt pulley to the rim and what is the torque speck for the rear axle nut 02 heritage softail

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to maker category.

The best idea is to get a Service Manual for it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+fxr+service+manual

Things like Torque specs can be found on Google by searching 'year make model (the part) bolt torque.

1987 FXR rear wheel torque

Harley-Davidson Riders Club of Great Britain https://www.hdrcgb.org > Technical > Evo Big Twins
Jun 21, 2009 - My question is can anyone give me the torque setting for the... ... 1987 FXR rear wheel torque ... Hi Nick rear axle nut 60-65 ft-lbs.

Just like this

https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+fxr+rear+axle+nut+torque

..

Locate the wheel in the rear swingarm and slide the wheel far enough forward to slip the belt over the sprocket and then slide the wheel backwards again. It is very important not to bend or fold the belt backward or into loops smaller than 5 inches (127 mm) in diameter because sharp bending can weaken the belt and cause it to fail. THEN seat the caliper on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm. THEN position the wheel in the swingarm, so that the brake disc is centered between the brake pads. THEN coat the axle with grease. THEN with the larger OD on the outboard side, hold the external spacer between the rear swingarm and the belt sprocket and slide the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the external spacer, and the belt sprocket into the wheel hub and when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm. THEN rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. THEN with the thumb down and the cam forward, install the adjuster cam onto the end of the axle. THEN apply a thin film of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with the threads and install the cone nut on the axle finger tight. THEN get a torque wrench with a 1/2 inch drive head and an axle torque adapter such as (HD-47925) which simplifies the belt adjustment procedure by allowing the cone nut to be properly tightened without having to remove the right side muffler and can also be used to loosen the cone nut, as well as rotate the weld nut on the left side. The torque adapter MUST be only be installed on the torque wrench at 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench because if it is not 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench it will act as a torque multiplier and the cone nut will not be torqued to the torque specification set on the torque wrench but it will be over tightened. Which will cause bearing etc. damage. THEN insert the torque adapter tool up between rear wheel and muffler and onto the cone nut on the outboard side for best clearance from /with the muffler. Verify that THE adjuster cam just contacts THE weld nub on both sides of the rear swingarm. And if necessary, push the wheel forward slightly to get it where you need it to be. THEN snug the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm). THEN check deflection at the loosest spot in the belt using a belt tension gauge such as the (HD-35381A) gauge and apply 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) of force at the midpoint of the bottom belt strand. Belt deflection with the bike upright with the wheel in the air should be three sixteenths to one 1 quarter inch or 4.8 to 6.4 mm. Belt deflection with the bike on its kickstand without rider or luggage and 10 psi (69 kPa) in the Rear Shocks should be one quarter to five sixteenths inches or 6.4 to 7.9 mm

• You don't need to use a torque speck really on an axle bolt. Just snug it by hand real good and make sure to stick a new cotter pin in through the axle and axle bolt to prevent the bolt from self un-threading. That all I have really ever done.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

To remove the wheels, you remove the axles. Make sure you mark or make a drawing of where the spacers go.

On the front wheel, it is advisable to remove brake calipers by removing the two bolts that hold each one on the lower fork slider. This makes it easier to get the wheel back on but it's not absolutely necessary.

On the rear wheel, you may have to remove part of the exhaust system to get the axle out. Once you have the axle out, you cal lower the wheel move it slightly forward. Take the belt guards off and you can work the belt from around the pulley. Do not bend the belt into a radius of less than 4" or you'll damage the inner strands of the belt and cause premature breakage.

To adjust the belt tension, you need to have the belt adjusted so there there is 1/2" of up and down play when you apply 10 pounds of pressure to the bottom of the belt. Harley sells and inexpensive gauge for doing this job. The rear wheel must be in alignment with the swingarm. I'm not sure if the road king has the dimple in the side of the swingarm or not like the Wide Glide does. Harley is so bad about changing this type of thing that it's almost impossible to keep up with. Just make sure the adjuster bolts on the end of the swingarm are the same length when you get the belt tension correct. Tighten the axle nuts when finished.

Front axle torque - 50-60 ft. lbs.
Rear axle torque - 60-70 ft. lbs.

Good Luck
steve

I would be taking a very close look at the drive belt pulleys and their bearings. If that is all good then replace the springs which maintain the tension. There is some extra slop in there somewhere allowing the belt to run out of the groove.

Seems like I answered this one before but I'll answer it again. The Fat Boy did not come with a belt drive primary from the factory. But, just in case you have a belt drive primary, the engine nut at the front primary drive torques to 150-165 foot pounds. The nut on the clutch torques to 60-80 foot pounds left handed. The large front final drive belt pulley torques to 125-150 foot pounds, left handed. You'll need a special tool to hold the front final drive belt pulley to prevent it from turning while applying the torque. Use locktite 271 red on all nuts.

On the front final drive belt pulley, take it off and look inside the pulley and inspect the small splines. If they're worn, the pulley needs to be replaced. Torquing instructions usually comes with the new pulley. They say torque the pulley to 50 foot pounds and then 1/2 hex or something like that. I've seen people have problems with this procedure. If you want to use this procedure, first torque the pulley to 100 foot pounds and then loosen the nut leaving the pulley where it is. Then, follow the instructions that come with the pulley. I've seen the pulley reach the 50 foot pounds of torque before it was fully back against the spacer giving a false torque reading. Needless to say, it will come loose if this happens. Good Luck

Lift or jack up the bike and put supports under it. There is a tensioning nut and bolt at the rear axle (usually on the chain or belt side) that needs to be loosened, then loosen the nuts on the axle. Slide the chain (or belt) off of the sprocket and take the rear wheel off.

Instructions
Things You'll Need: · Set of quarter-inch drive sockets Quarter-inch drive ratchet Set of half-inch drive sockets Half-inch drive air gun Set of metric wrenches Special tools for holding camshaft timing #2065-A and injection pump #2064

Step 1

Remove the accessory drive belts and the accessory drive belt tensioner. Remove the upper timing belt cover and the valve cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the No.1 cylinder is atop, dead center, with the flywheel timing marks aligned.

Step 2

Install the special tool setting bar (#2065-A) on the rear of the camshaft. If it does not fit, turn the crankshaft once more and line up the timing marks again in the hole of the transmission housing.

Step 3

Insert locking pin #2064 into the injection pump to hold it in position. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts, the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and allow the tensioner to move away from the belt. Loosely tighten the nut to hold the tensioner out of the way. Remove the top guide pulley and the timing belt.

Step 4

Make sure that the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up and that the camshaft setting bar and injection locking pin are in place. Loosen the camshaft bolt a half turn and tap the sprocket with a soft mallet to loosen it off its taper. The sprocket should move freely. Install the top guide pulley and torque to 18 foot pounds of torque.

Step 5

Install the new timing belt, starting on the right side and working counterclockwise. Keep the tension on the right nontensioned side. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut. Using the two-pin wrench, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise until the notch and raised mark are aligned. Torque the tensioner pulley nut to 15 foot pounds of torque. Make sure the flywheel timing mark is still aligned.

Step 6

Torque the camshaft bolt to 33 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin from the injection pump and remove the camshaft setting bar. Turn the crankshaft two turns and check the alignment on the flywheel. Make sure that the setting bar can be inserted easily and that the injection pump locking pin can be inserted. Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.

My Recommendation - Pay an authorized VW mechanic $500 to replace the timing belt water pump an tensioner, and sleep better knowing that the job was done right. Just too many places for a novice car mechanic to screw up. jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); });

Straight out of the repair manual:

REMOVAL
WARNING: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY OUTPUT WIRE (B+ WIRE) FROM GENERATOR. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN INJURY OR DAMAGE TO
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Remove generator drive belt. Refer to 7, Cooling System for procedure.
(3) Remove generator pivot and mounting bolts/nut (Fig. 2) , or (Fig. 3). Position generator for access to wire connectors.
(4) If equipped, unsnap plastic cover from B+ terminal.
(5) Remove B+ cable output terminal mounting
nut at rear of generator (Fig. 4), (Fig. 5), or (Fig. 6). Disconnect terminal from generator.
(6) Disconnect field wire connector at rear of generator by pushing on connector tab.
(7) Remove generator from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position generator to engine and snap field
wire connector into rear of generator.
(2) Install B+ terminal to generator mounting
stud. Tighten mounting nut. Refer to Torque Specifications.
(3) If equipped, snap plastic cover to B+ terminal.
(4) Install generator mounting fasteners and
tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
CAUTION: Never force a belt over a pulley rim using a screwdriver. The synthetic fiber of the belt can be damaged.