Question about Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard Motorcycles
So you will first disconnect the battery then take the center counsel off and remove the t25 screws carefully pull assembly out and change filter
Posted on Feb 08, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Down and dirty way - take it to the dealer and have them install a new tire....
The hard way: place bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel by removing the axle nut and drifting the axle out of the wheel. Derail the belt/chain and drop the wheel out of the brake caliper. Remove valve stem to deflate the tire. Get a set of tire spoons and a 12 pack of COLD brew cause working with tire spoons is no FUN! Pry the bead loose with one spoon and the work your way around the wheel prying the tire beed to the outside of the wheel. Repeat this process for the back side of the tire (in the same direction as the first side so the tire will come off the wheel. Reverse and repeat to install new tire.
By now you will be loading your wheel into the truck and heading to the HD shop. It just really isn't worth the hastle to save the $25 or so to have this job done.
Align wheel with new tire on it with the brake caliper so that you have one shoe on each side of the rotor (you may have to actually remove the caliper if your pads are thick. Install your belt drive/chain drive and then lift the wheel to insert the axle through the swing arm, the chain tensioner and wheel. Reverse
on the other side. Place axle nut on axle and torque to about 80lbs.
Good to go.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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