Question about 2008 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide

2 Answers

2018 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide will not turn over

Brian,2018 Harley Davidson Ultra. My problem no gauge lights, no red wait to start light, with the switch on power to display and radio. The engine will not turn over, all fuses and battery checked good. The kill switch to run. Installed 12" new bars, removed LH & RH handlebar switch controls assembly and reinstall on new bars. I ohm checked wires from switches plug to end plugs, checked clutch safety switch, fob, the engine in neutral safety to start. ???? @

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2 Answers

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 54,766 Answers

Hi, Brian before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/touring-general-discussions/46115-flht-won-t-turnover-start.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/clu7d3hyl4lip58/2018+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.zip
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://www.mediafire.com/file/90s763z4bycpnv6/2017+Harley+Touring+Owners+Manual.pdf
https://www.6ya.com/
to speak to me personally $6

Posted on Jan 28, 2019

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  • Contributor
  • 17 Answers

Sounds like a problem with the ignition switch. Does anything get power when you turn the key on? Headlights? Did you change the bars before or after the problem started? Is the handlebar harness plugged in correctly?

Posted on Jan 27, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

boscia
  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: husqvarna rider 155 won't start

try checking the ignition switch for any damage and replace if necessary

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: TTR 90 wont start. Not carb. Not CDI. Plug cap?

Every component plays a part in the ignition system. Check the wiring as you go. Start at one end and move forward. You have done a lot of work so far. so you should be close. If the igniter is fine and the other components too. Then it would narrow it down to an electrical problem or no signal/pulse to the coil. See if the coil is receiving that pulse. you can use a test light for this test. Pos. will be power and NEG. will be the pulse. With light on the NEG. crank the engine over and see if it flashes. Let me know how its going.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: My suzuki gsf 600 bandit 1999 wont start.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, try with the sidestand folded up and / or the clutch lever pulled in.  Likewise determine if there is a clicking sound when the start button is pressed:

  • if there is a clicking sound, locate the starter relay. Follow the big cable from the battery's + terminal; it would end in nother terminal of the starter relay:
  1. turn ignition ON and kill switch to RUN;
  2. short the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. Expect a big start. If the starter spins, startr relay is faulty.
  • if there is no click, then the safety interlocks are preventing the relay from engaging. Check the neutral switch/wire and sidestand switch/wire.
It is of course assumed that the battery is fully charged and that the battery cablles/connectors are clen and tight.  Postback result(s) of tests.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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Hi, Kvidde PN is not a fault code they usually show up at the end of a diagnostic search for generated error codes that are active or non-active that have been resolved but not cleared. They are part numbers that identify electrical components that are currently installed on the bike. 3291917-07 is the ECM that has been may have been remapped for a stage one upgrade. 68924-07 is the turn signal security alarm module. 67350-08 is the speedometer.
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Hi, Anonymous Harley Davidson uses medium carbon heat treated steel Grade 5 fasteners these are the most common torque specifications in foot pounds for dry threads.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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