2018 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide will not turn over

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

SOURCE: replace handle bars

Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

SOURCE: husqvarna rider 155 won't start

try checking the ignition switch for any damage and replace if necessary

SOURCE: TTR 90 wont start. Not carb. Not CDI. Plug cap?

Every component plays a part in the ignition system. Check the wiring as you go. Start at one end and move forward. You have done a lot of work so far. so you should be close. If the igniter is fine and the other components too. Then it would narrow it down to an electrical problem or no signal/pulse to the coil. See if the coil is receiving that pulse. you can use a test light for this test. Pos. will be power and NEG. will be the pulse. With light on the NEG. crank the engine over and see if it flashes. Let me know how its going.

SOURCE: My suzuki gsf 600 bandit 1999 wont start.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, try with the sidestand folded up and / or the clutch lever pulled in.  Likewise determine if there is a clicking sound when the start button is pressed:

• if there is a clicking sound, locate the starter relay. Follow the big cable from the battery's + terminal; it would end in nother terminal of the starter relay:
  

1. turn ignition ON and kill switch to RUN;
   
2. short the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. Expect a big start. If the starter spins, startr relay is faulty.
   

• if there is no click, then the safety interlocks are preventing the relay from engaging. Check the neutral switch/wire and sidestand switch/wire.
  

It is of course assumed that the battery is fully charged and that the battery cablles/connectors are clen and tight.  Postback result(s) of tests.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.