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2007 kawasaki brute force 750 battery good, starter good, but voltage drops when trying to start or under load and will not turn over

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 5,948 Answers

Relay cud b bad or startr wires burnt or worn. Also batt must read 12.6 for a coil ign

Posted on Dec 02, 2018

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 64,245 Answers

You might have a stuck starter

Posted on Dec 02, 2018

Testimonial: "I have two startersand went and had them checked both were good"

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: kawasaki brute force 750 2005,

Your jetting on the carbs are wrong.

if you want more info on the jetting and how to do it along with some GREAT info, check out highlifter.com/forum

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: kawasaki brute force 750

try to drain carb
water probably got in through air box and carb vent hose
drain and flush carb
replace spark plug
spray contact cleaner in carb throat through air box

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kawasaki 650 brute force won't start

Sounds like to me that your motor is locked up, take the CVT cover off and see if you can turn the primary clutch with your hands. If your not able to turn the primary clutch, then the motor is locked up. Good Luck.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 209 Answers

SOURCE: the drive belt light is flashing on the dash and

This belt light is a feature put on by kawasaki for safety. It'll continue to come on after it get so many kilometers on it. The light has to be reset in order to get it off. Now if your mechanically inclined i'll explain to you how to get that light to go off.

First thing you have to do is reach down under the right side of the bike and in under the side cover you'll find two black plugin and two grey pluggins. Unplug those two and then plug a black and grey together and then the other black and grey together. Then down on the belt box you'll find a square black metal box with two wires coming from it. Unplug that ****** also. Once you have this all done now turn the ignition key to the on position and wait for about 7 to 10 seconds and the computer will reset itself. After you do that, turn the ignition key off and then unplug the two black/grey connectors and plug them back together, black to black, grey to grey. Then plug the connector from the black metal box on the belt cover back in. After you have this done. Turn the key on and let it go thru it's cycle. When you are done the belt light should be off.

Now if after you have done all this, and the belt light remains on and you still have no power, then you have a switch problem in the belt box. You can either remove the belt box and check the switch inside of it to see if the switch has been tripped to off. If it has, then in all probablity you need to install a new belt and reset the switch. Personally, i'd cut the two wires coming out of that metal box i previously told you about and join then together on the bikes wiring harness side. Leave the two wires from the black metal box like they are. You don't have any warranty on that part of the bike anyhow, so why bother have that switch continue to cause you problems. In order to get the belt light to off after you cut those two wires is you'll have to go thru the process i explained to you before. Only this time at the end instead of plugging the switch wires back together, just twist the two wires on the harness side together,in theory all you are doing is plugging that plug together, only your disconnecting that switch and never again should it bother you. However, after a few 100 kilometers you may have to do all i explained to you over again, only the next time you'll have to untwist the two wires along with the two black and grey wires and then go thru the process again. After the process is done, replug black to black, grey to grey, and then twist the two wires back together, turn the key on again and let it reset itself. Again your belt light should be gone out.

Good luck
Wayne

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

toneman2121
  • 775 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 F-250, 5.4l gas. Won't start or even crank.

are you referring to the starter relay on the firewall? the voltage should drop to 0 when measuring across the signal path because the connection is made, essentially making it a piece of wire and there is no difference in potential between the two points. is there 12v to the starter motor? is the starter solenoid (located on the starter) receiving 12v? check fuses and fusible links. disconnect hot leads from the starter. remove the starter, and supply 12v directly to the motor. does the pinon gear extend and spin? starter.

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

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