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Tony Brandon Varner Posted on Dec 02, 2018
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2007 kawasaki brute force 750 battery good, starter good, but voltage drops when trying to start or under load and will not turn over

1 Answer

Arnie Burke

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  • kawasaki Master 7,339 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 02, 2018
Arnie Burke
kawasaki Master
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Joined: Jul 23, 2009
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Relay cud b bad or startr wires burnt or worn. Also batt must read 12.6 for a coil ign

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2008

SOURCE: kawasaki brute force 750 2005,

Your jetting on the carbs are wrong.

if you want more info on the jetting and how to do it along with some GREAT info, check out highlifter.com/forum

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Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 19, 2008

SOURCE: kawasaki brute force 750

try to drain carb
water probably got in through air box and carb vent hose
drain and flush carb
replace spark plug
spray contact cleaner in carb throat through air box

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2009

SOURCE: kawasaki 650 brute force won't start

Sounds like to me that your motor is locked up, take the CVT cover off and see if you can turn the primary clutch with your hands. If your not able to turn the primary clutch, then the motor is locked up. Good Luck.

Wayne McNeil

  • 209 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: the drive belt light is flashing on the dash and

This belt light is a feature put on by kawasaki for safety. It'll continue to come on after it get so many kilometers on it. The light has to be reset in order to get it off. Now if your mechanically inclined i'll explain to you how to get that light to go off.

First thing you have to do is reach down under the right side of the bike and in under the side cover you'll find two black plugin and two grey pluggins. Unplug those two and then plug a black and grey together and then the other black and grey together. Then down on the belt box you'll find a square black metal box with two wires coming from it. Unplug that ****** also. Once you have this all done now turn the ignition key to the on position and wait for about 7 to 10 seconds and the computer will reset itself. After you do that, turn the ignition key off and then unplug the two black/grey connectors and plug them back together, black to black, grey to grey. Then plug the connector from the black metal box on the belt cover back in. After you have this done. Turn the key on and let it go thru it's cycle. When you are done the belt light should be off.

Now if after you have done all this, and the belt light remains on and you still have no power, then you have a switch problem in the belt box. You can either remove the belt box and check the switch inside of it to see if the switch has been tripped to off. If it has, then in all probablity you need to install a new belt and reset the switch. Personally, i'd cut the two wires coming out of that metal box i previously told you about and join then together on the bikes wiring harness side. Leave the two wires from the black metal box like they are. You don't have any warranty on that part of the bike anyhow, so why bother have that switch continue to cause you problems. In order to get the belt light to off after you cut those two wires is you'll have to go thru the process i explained to you before. Only this time at the end instead of plugging the switch wires back together, just twist the two wires on the harness side together,in theory all you are doing is plugging that plug together, only your disconnecting that switch and never again should it bother you. However, after a few 100 kilometers you may have to do all i explained to you over again, only the next time you'll have to untwist the two wires along with the two black and grey wires and then go thru the process again. After the process is done, replug black to black, grey to grey, and then twist the two wires back together, turn the key on again and let it reset itself. Again your belt light should be gone out.

Good luck
Wayne

toneman2121

toneman2121

  • 775 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 17, 2010

SOURCE: 2004 F-250, 5.4l gas. Won't start or even crank.

are you referring to the starter relay on the firewall? the voltage should drop to 0 when measuring across the signal path because the connection is made, essentially making it a piece of wire and there is no difference in potential between the two points. is there 12v to the starter motor? is the starter solenoid (located on the starter) receiving 12v? check fuses and fusible links. disconnect hot leads from the starter. remove the starter, and supply 12v directly to the motor. does the pinon gear extend and spin? starter.

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Check your starter solenoid. You can trace it by following the power wire from the battery to the small solenoid block that contains a 30 amp fuse. You can bridge the posts on the solenoid by using needle nose pliers or whatever else you may have. If it starts up or you hear the starter run, you have a bad starter solenoid.
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Have a 2007 Kawasaki 650i with 100 hrs on it. Starter acts up periodically. Just the cellinoid cliks. Has new battery, checked the cellinoid and it is closing. Checked voltage to starter and it is proper...

When you say you checked the starter, did you check it under load? A "bad" starter " often will turn when it's out of the vehicle and hooked up to a battery. That doesn't always mean it's good. When you take a starter to Auto Zone or Advance they check it under a dummy load to simulate the load the starter is under when it turns an engine. So if you checked the starter under load, then it is OK. If you didn't , take it Auto Zone or Advance and they'll check it for you.
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