Question about kawasaki KX 125 Motorcycles

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1995 Kawasaki KX 125 leaks fuel from the carburetor

1995 kx125 keihin PWK G095 A1FL. Float seat is worn out, new needle but still leaks and floods. Is this carburetor still available? Where, how much, other options??? @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 56,031 Answers

Hi, Jeff you need a carburetor rebuild kit that has both needle and seat and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
8. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/46372-major-problem-fuel-running-out-carb-kx-125-a.html
kx125 carb leaking out of overflow
Kawasaki KX125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1995 Kawasaki KX125 Owner Manual

Posted on Aug 14, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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4x4papa
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase

This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: float hieght for 1984 IT 490

not sure of the exact height, but if you hold the carb level with fuel hose attached and pushing float up with finger, turn on petcok and slowly lower the float until it is just above horizontal. at this point, gas should start to flow out of the needle & seat.

if float turns off gas too soon, then engine will starve.

if float doesn't turn off gas, then it will flow out of the carb overflow tube.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rear Carb leaks fuel out of overflow

Hole in the float. It fills with gas, sinks and fails to stop the fuel flow

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Air box and crank case fuel flooding problem

Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

Testimonial: "I will try it, thanks!"

2strokeJim
  • 577 Answers

SOURCE: How do I clean a float needle seat on Echo blower?

pull carb off, dissemble it and replace needle and diaphram (carb kit) and clean it thourghly and then also make sure your tank vent is working properly cause if not it will drain your fuel tank also and fill your crankcase and cylinder with fuel !

Posted on May 17, 2012

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You say you changed the float pin. I guess you mean needle valve. If you can in your case change the needle valve seat, it may be damaged, worn, or just aged. If the needle valve seat can't be changed, you may be able to lap the needle valve into the old seat or area if part of the carb. This would be very gently done in the same manner as you would lap a head valve. Clean well afterwards and possibly you will have success. Good Luck Friend.

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Hi, Mike this is Gregory # 5 is volunteering to be a hero and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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My 2002 ktm125sx runs awesome revs great until carb bowl fills up then it floods and runs terrible I turn the gas off and it'll scream until it starts running out I've cleaned carb checked float


Hi, Dewayne and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirt or other foreign matter between float valve and its seat.
2. Float valve sticking.
3. Float valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged.
4. Float misadjusted.
5. Float cracked, leaky or damaged.
6. Excessive "PUMPING" of hand throttle grip.
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1 Answer

Turn on mower engine dies and carburetor floods.Deck isclean to and bottom.


If your engine stops and then the carburetor floods, your needle and seat is not closing correctly. This can be caused by dirt or varnish being caught in the needle and seat.
A good clean with some carburetor cleaner will remove any dirt or varnish buildup from the carburetor. Then while you have it apart give the float a shake to see if it has a leak.
If there is any liquid in the float you will need to replace it.

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Needle and seat problem probably with the needle worn or seat worn or both OR needle sticking OR float and/or float level adjustment problems.

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2003 Kawasaki KX 125 not getting gas to the carburetor


Hi, Anonymous you need to locate the fuel flow origin first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing.
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn.
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working.
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jan 06, 2014 | 2006 Diamo Cruiser VTwin 250

1 Answer

2003 Kawasaki KX 125 carburetor not getting fuel


Hi, Anonymous you need to locate the fuel flow origin first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing.
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn.
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working.
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Won't start leaks gas


The Carburetor is flooding. The only thing that
will cause a flood problem is the float needle is not seating properly in the
needle seat. The Carburetor will need to be removed to replace the Needle and Float
assembly. After instillation the float level will need to be checked, and
adjusted if required. This is a little tricky, and would be quite lengthy to explain
hear. Short version is, the needle is a two part piece, having a spring loaded
piston located in the needle, the neoprene needle tip will need to be seated in
the seat, the spring loaded piston in the needle will need to remain uncompressed, in other words not pushed
into the needle what so ever. With the float tang just touching the top of the
uncompressed needle piston. To do this hold the carburetor housing in a
position to accomplish the the above configuration. Measure from the carburetor
housing gasket surface to the highest point of the float drum. The measurement specifications
are (14.5 to 18.5 mm) or (0.57" to 0.72" in). Make sure the float pin rotates

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirt or other foreign matter between float valve and its seat.
2. Float valve sticking.
3. Float valve and/or valve seat is worn or damaged.
4. Float misadjusted.
5. Float cracked, leaky or damaged.
6. Excessive "PUMPING" of hand throttle grip.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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