When engine is hot Only oil lamp works Will start after appr 10 minutes and all lamps works Works great a half mile, then engine stops. Will only start with no throttle. Recently bought a new head light bulb. Before that there was no trouble. I appreciate any suggestions
Indicates a problem in the coil or ignition control module
I've had that problem with an Orion 250cc dirt bike. Coil was broken. I have put copper paste to cool the rectifier and voltage regulator. Will test it today. The Kymco started immediatly and all ligths Ok today with cool engine.
I'll go for a test ride and have a freeze spray can to cool down electronics and coil.
Thank You.
check the coil for the correct voltage
the check the voltage output from the charge system anything over 14.5 volts will burn a coil
Kymco coil is ok.
Of course, the Kymco died after few miles today.
Tried to cool ignition coil, rectifier, voltage regulator and auto-choke. No contact corrosion found.
Didn't help.
"Strange things":
When the engine won't start the oil lamp, horn signal and bypass button for high beam headlight works. But no others like: blinkers, low beam headlight and front daytime lights.
When the engine has cooled down for 10-15 minutes it starts but dies, not suddenly but giving more throttle makes it worse. Can drive 200 meters, same problems again....
I Am Confused !
one question--is this unit EFI with an electronic engine management (ECM) module
If it has then your recent statements and observations suggest that the problem may be a faulty ECM unit overheating from and internal component failing
check all ground points because if one is loose it will arc and cause a high resistance causing failure
Hello !
Overnight, charged the battery, 14.5 V, within specs.
Today:
Engine started directly.
All lights OK.
Removed the auto choke (cool).
Measured coil resistance, 7 Ohms.
Applied 10 V to it.
2.5 Amps going down to 0.3 Amps when hot.
Got hot as it should be.
Put it back (hot) on the bike, engine cool.
Didn't start, and no lights.
Removed it and put a finger on the mounting hole.
Started directly and all lights OK.
Seems I've made a bad fitting of the auto choke on the carb.
It probably didn't stay in right position.
Fixed that and the engine was running well for 10 minutes.
Going for a real test ride soon.
Hav a great day, Bill !
Hello !
Finally it seems I know what the problem is.
With help from a REAL mech. guy nearby...
There is a front headlight control unit which gets to hot (there is one for the rear lights as well). Does anyone know where it is mounted ?
I've done a lot of browsing to find information. NO Luck. I don't even know where to buy a new.
I appreciate all tips in this matter !
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SOURCE: lamp light
Check the lamp switch that is located inside the door. Place the lamp in, and stick a flathead screwdriver in the slot (just make sure it moves) hold it there, and turn on the Tv. If that doesn't work check the new lamp, is it a generic lamp, if so they dont always work. If you still have your old orig lamp, take the old lamp out of that housing, and out the new lamp in the old housing. This should fix the problem.
SOURCE: Bad Lamp lights even with new bulb.
confirm that it is not made in china-because some chinese lamps is not good in life time.
SOURCE: Mitsubishi DLP - model #WD62725
you have mention that after 10-15 seconds T.V starts up, will you give total description of the T.V within that 10-15 seconds?
SOURCE: Pressure Washer Pump and Engine Stops Suddenly
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
Try this:
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
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