Hi I had taken the right-hand engine case off to change front sprocket then replaced casing now the starter motor will not fire up battery fine no issues with starting previously the bike

I had one i had to bump start for miles till it went. also would fire on three now and again ... cleaned up the pic up points front lower casing right hand side , and it fired up and ran all the time nice and fine .

For The 3.0 Motor. (3.3 Way down the line.)

Drain cooling system.
Remove timing belt. Refer to Engine for procedure.
Remove water pump mounting bolts.
Separate pump from water inlet pipe and remove water pump.

Timing Belt Removal
Raise vehicle and remove accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 66).
Remove accessory drive belts.
Remove crankshaft pulley and damper (Fig. 68).
Support engine and remove right side engine mount.
Remove engine support bracket (Fig. 67).
Remove timing belt covers (Fig. 67).
Mark belt running direction for installation (Fig. 69).
Loosen timing belt tensioner bolt (Fig. 71) and remove timing belt.
Remove crankshaft sprocket flange shield (Fig. 68). CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS To remove camshaft sprockets
Hold camshaft sprocket with Spanner Tool MB-990775. Loosen and remove bolt and washer (Fig. 70).
Remove camshaft sprocket from camshaft. To install camshaft sprockets:
Place camshaft sprocket on camshaft.
Install bolt and washer to camshaft. Using Spanner Tool MB-990775, hold camshaft sprocket and torque bolt to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 70). TIMING BELT TENSIONER
Install timing belt tensioner and tensioner spring.
Hook spring upper end to water pump pin and lower end to tensioner bracket with hook out (Fig. 71).
Turn timing belt tensioner counterclockwise full travel in adjustment slot and tighten bolt to temporarily hold this position (Fig. 72).

INSTALLATION


Install timing belt on crankshaft sprocket and keep belt tight on tension side (Fig. 69). Install belt on the front (radiator side) camshaft sprocket. Install belt on the water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket and finally on the timing belt tensioner.
Rotate the front camshaft sprocket in opposite direction to take up belt slack. Check that all timing marks are aligned (Fig. 69).
Install crankshaft sprocket flange (Fig. 68).
Loosen tensioner bolt and allow spring to tension timing belt.
Turn crankshaft two full turns in clockwise direction. Turn smoothly and in clockwise direction ONLY.
Align the timing marks on the sprockets and tighten the timing belt tensioner locking bolt to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) torque.
Install timing belt covers.
Install engine support bracket.
Install right side engine mount.
Install crankshaft damper and pulleys (Fig. 68). Tighten damper center bolt to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) .
Install accessory drive belts.
Install accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 66).

Be sure to also replace all the cam and crank seals why you are there. Might as well put a belt on too.

FOR THE 3.3 OR 3.8 MOTORS.

Drain Cooling System.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Remove right front lower fender shield.
Remove water pump pulley bolts and remove pulley.
Remove water pump mounting screws. Remove water pump.
Remove and discard O-ring seal.
Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surface

Installation

Install new O-ring into groove.
Install water pump to chain case cover. Tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .
Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
Position pulley on pump. Install screws and tighten to 30 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
Install accessory drive belt.
Install right front lower fender shield.
Refill Cooling System.

FOR THE 2.4 MOTOR

Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove right inner splash shield.
Remove accessory drive belts.
Drain cooling system.
Support engine from the bottom and remove right engine mount.
Remove right engine mount bracket.
Remove timing belt. Refer to Engine for procedure.
Remove timing belt idler pulley.
Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt. Remove both cam sprockets.
Remove rear timing belt cover.

Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body O-ring groove. CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in water pump groove before tightening screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the O-ring and cause a coolant leak.
Assemble pump body to block and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) . Pressurize cooling system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
Install rear timing belt cover.
Install camshaft sprockets and torque bolts to 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) .
Install timing belt idler pulley and torque mounting bolt to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) .
Install timing belt. Refer to Engine for procedure.
Install right engine mount bracket and engine mount. Refer to Engine for procedure.
Fill cooling system.
Install accessory drive belts.
Lower vehicle and connect battery cable.

hi, first you must disconect the earth from the battery, remove front seat, by unscrewing the 2 alun bolts 5mm, undo the bolts securing the front of the fuel tank, and prop up the tank, the starter can then be seen on the top of the engine, as well as from the left hand side above the front sprocket housing,fold back the rubber cover on the starter cable, now undo the nut securing the cable to the starter, NOTE ORDER OF WASHERS FITTED, AND REPLACE IN SAME ORDER,

now undo the bolts securing the starter to the engine, and remove the starter by pulling it out to the left, you may need to prise it from the engine with a pry bar placed gently between starter and engine.

when replacing the starter apply a small amount of oil to the seal around the starter to ease refitment, replace wire, inc cover and reconect the battery,

in some cases it may be easyer to remove the fuel tank to improve working conditions, this will require you to turn off the fuel tap located at the rear of the fuel tank in the middle by the top of the rear shock absorber, when replacing donot forget to turn the fuel back to the on position

Did you ever think of having it diagnosed by a qualified repair shop ? Thier are aspects associated with this system you have no clue about. That's the first thing every one goes for , changing the switch . It flashes because codes are stored .
DTC B0768 Service Indicator Circuit High
DTC B2725 ATC Mode Switch Circuit Malfunction
DTC C0300 Rear Speed Sensor Malfunction
DTC C0305 Front Speed Sensor Malfunction
DTC C0308 Motor A/B Circuit Low
DTC C0309 Motor A/B Circuit High
DTC C0310 Motor A/B Circuit Open
DTC C0315 Motor Ground Circuit Open
DTC C0323 T-Case Lock Circuit Low
DTC C0324 T-Case Lock Circuit High
DTC C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction
DTC C0357 Park Switch Circuit High
DTC C0362 4LO Discrete Output Circuit High
DTC C0367 Front Axle Control Circuit High
DTC C0374 General System Malfunction
DTC C0376 Front/Rear Shaft Speed Mismatch
DTC C0387 Unable to Perform Shift
DTC C0550 ECU Malfunction
DTC C0611 VIN Information Error
You need a professional scan tool to check for these codes an too view data parameters .
Transfer Case Shift Control Module
The transfer case shift control module uses the VIN information for calculations that are required for the different calibrations used based on axle ratio, transmission, tire size, and engine. The system does not know which calibration to use without this information.
The direct battery supply line (CKT 1640) provides the power to the module and motor circuitry.
Transfer Case Encoder Motor
The transfer case encoder motor consists of a permanent magnet (PM) DC motor and gear reduction assembly. It is located on the left hand side (drivers side) of the transfer case. When activated it turns the sector shaft of the transfer case (clockwise or counter clockwise) to shift the transfer case. The encoder motor is controlled with a pulse width modulated (PWM) circuit within the transfer case shift control module. This circuit consists of a driver on both the Motor A and Motor B circuits. The encoder motor is bi-directional to allow the motor to shift the transfer case from 2HI or 4HI to neutral and 4LO positions.
Transfer Case Encoder
Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop .

The starter sounds like it has a bad solenoid, but in this case the starter will have to be replaced to get a new solenoid and starter together.

If the battery is new and the connections are good, then a starter should fire the car right up.
In this case it is not, so I would say it's a starter.

I assume you were having trouble starting the vehicle, so changed the battery.

this problem is caused by burned battery connection contacts inside the starter motor solenoid (part of the starter), the click is the solenoid pluger being pulled back to make a battery connection to turn the starter, in your case that connection is never made due to burned away contacts. this is the most common problem with all modern light weight "mini" starters.

first thing to do is disconnect the battery, then put a socket on the belt tensioner and rotate counter-clockwise to loosen and remove the belt. next locate the timing belt sprocket case (in front of the engine, top middle of engine) remove the screws holding the casing on. when you have it off you should see the 2 sprockets holding the timing belt, be careful to line up the 2 notches on the sprockets ( to do this you must turn the engine crank by hand using a wrench or ratchet) by this time you should see the bottom of the casing that houses the timing belt. remove the lower case and u should see the whole timing belt and set up. hop this helps you out.

Just because your starter motor spins does not make it 100% good - it only makes it 50% good.

The other thing the starter has to do is move it's gear forward about 1/2-1" to engage the flywheel gear of the engine.

It sounds like your starter motor is not advancing, so I would continue to check there to make sure it is moving forward when current is applied. If you remove it from the car but leave the power connection, you can try turning the engine to see if it reacts correctly. If not, consider rebuilding or replacing it.

You must take off the right hand engine cover and after unscrewing CLOCKWISE the main bolt that holds the flywheel you need a special KTM puller to pull out the stator rotor (flywheel).Behind that there is a group of parts that you should replace.The large sprocket, the clutch system that the large sprocket is into (special formed balls in a spring) and the hub that is screwed behind the flywheel.Use OEM parts (even for the 5mm allen screws if they need to be renewed).Use 18Nm for those allen screws adding locking nut adhesive on their threads (Locktite).
Work backwords to reinstall it and the flywheel's main bolt uses 120Nm of torque to tight it up on the crankshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE.Use new gasket for the engine case and 12Nm for the bolts.

Usually inside the casing is a sprocket you must remove before it will come out.