Need manual for 2008 YZ125 @
Yamaha YZ400 E Owner Manual
SOURCE: 2000 yz125 - Water pump seal change
The two seals in the diagram below are separated by the casing they fit into. The impeller is threaded to screw onto the impeller shaft. I think you already knew that by your "holding the tire" note. The center casing does not get split. The right casing does remove then a wrench is used on the shaft as the impeller unscrews counter clockwise. It is risky to "Lock the wheel" because the gear on the impeller is very thin and can break.
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SOURCE: Find a free Owner's manual for yamaha yz125
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=EMA9FGH6- there ya go, click the link. type in the letters in the box and click "scarcia file" you have to wait 50 seconds before you click "Free Download" the manual is in English.
Its the proper service manual, everything you need to service the bike as per manufactures recommendations.
SOURCE: my yz125 runs like it is always cold, why?
It's likely just jetted too rich. If you pull your spark plug, it will likely be black and oily. To correct this, you need to alter your jetting. Jetting is not an art - it's fairly straightforward - you just have to physically change the jets inside the carb.
SOURCE: yz125 rear shock amount of oil on
The volume is less than about 1/2 quart - it's usually not measured going in since you fill the shock completely - there's no need to measure. Some guys assemble the entire shock, then fill with oil and cycle the shaft, then install the bladder cap last. My method is to install the shaft and seal head and the bladder, then put about 2 PSI in the bladder, then bleed through the compression cap. My method is a bit more complicated to explain, but it's effective at eliminating ALL the air from the oil and it keeps the bladder from being installed in a collapsed state.
As far as the nitrogen charge - 145PSI is stock. 130-160PSI is typical.
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